With 24-hour traffic and speeding, horn-tooting buses, it might seem like an unlikely choice for a walk. Crossing the avenue can take five minutes as you wait for traffic lights to change, although some attempt the whole thing in daring, Olympic-style sprints. But look beyond the traffic and there’s plenty to discover, from football heroes and political icons to quirky artwork and emblematic buildings.

• Walking distance: Around four to five kilometres

• Suggested time: Three to five hours, depending on side trips and food breaks

• Good for: Architecture, public art, daily city life

• When: Daytime

• Difficulty: Easy and flat

1. Railway Heritage and Maradona

Like our Avenida del Libertador walk, this one starts at a prominent transit centre, Plaza Constitución. Trains have been ferrying commuters in and out of the city from here since 1865, when the Buenos Aires Great Southern Railway began running to Chascomús. Today, its grand Victorian architecture feels a world away from the predominately suburban train services.

Before joining the chaos of the avenue, take a detour down Avenida San Juan. When you reach Plazoleta Lola Mora, on the corner of Virrey Ceballos, you’ll be greeted by the world’s biggest mural of Diego Maradona. It’s one of dozens of citywide works by Martín Ron, depicting Maradona in a passionate moment from the 1990 World Cup Final. A kite referencing his Barrilete Cósmico (Cosmic Kite) nickname flies behind him.

Head back to 9 de Julio and its scale comes into view. Constitución’s railroad architecture gives way to a spaghetti junction of highway slip roads, avenue accesses and green spaces. This is where crossing the road becomes a real expedition.

• Good to know: Free guided tours in Spanish of both the Constitución and Retiro train stations take place weekly. Pre-registration is required via the sign up form.

2. People of the People

It’s time to tackle the avenue itself. Rather than battling the traffic all at once, head to the tree-lined medians running through the centre. Gardens and pathways help put some distance between you and the stream of buses, cars and trucks. You’ll have to cross the lanes at various points, but this way you can do so in stages.

Continue to the corner of Avenida Belgrano and look up. On the facade of a Banco Patagonia office building is the 35-meter-high mural, El Capitán. Another Martín Ron masterpiece, it portrays Lionel Messi celebrating with his fist raised and was unveiled to mark the first anniversary of Argentina’s 2022 World Cup victory.

Gaze left from here and another iconic Argentina figure comes into view, albeit a political one this time. The Ministry of Public Works building carries two enormous steel portraits of Eva Perón created by artist Alejandro Marmo. One looks sternly to the north, while the other smiles to the working class south.

Messi is the football hero who brought the World Cup home, while Evita remains a prominent and divisive historical figure. Both are larger-than-life characters, fittingly celebrated on oversized scales in a collision of football, politics and mythology.

• Approximate total distance from previous stop: 1.8 kilometers / 25 minutes

• Good to know: Before reaching Messi, this is the longest uninterrupted stretch of the walk. Save time by taking Subte C from Constitución or San Juan to Moreno.

3. Plazas, Sculptures and the City’s Civic Axis

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But the giving of flowers is just the start. Spring transforms Buenos Aires, from streets and avenues exploding with colour to packed pavement cafés, cultural events and concerts. Parks also fill to bursting point with locals who have been waiting all autumn and winter to strip off their puffer jacket and scarf and get outside.

There are downsides, of course. Allergy sufferers must take cover from swirling pollen, wallets can take unexpected hits, and there’s a danger of feasting your way through the season. So, is spring really the best time of year to be in the city?

A City in Bloom

Ask a local when Buenos Aires is at its most attractive and most will tell you it’s now. The city basically gets redecorated for free. In fact the canopy shifts colours more times than a porteña changes plans for a first date. First come the lapachos, their late-winter bloom bringing vivid pink hues while other trees around them stay bare. The Lapacho de Ezcurra on Avenida Figueroa Alcorta is iconic.

But then comes the early- to mid-spring attack of the plátanos, the Chile of trees to allergic Argentines. While they look impressive, they are merciless, releasing clouds of itch- and sneeze-inducing pollen into the air. Luckily, the pollen season is a short 20-40 days, and there’s a plátano map to help plan your routes. The annual disdain for President Sarmiento, who ordered them planted, is therefore typically short-lived.

In November, thousands of jacarandás turn the streets lilac and purple, with fallen leaves creating magical pavement carpets. This is when the city really starts showing off. Palermo, Recoleta and Retiro are top places to see them, especially Avenida del Libertador. Then, as spring turns to summer, the taipas bring their yellow bloom. Check them out along Avenida Pedro Goyena (Caballito) and Calle Melián (Belgrano R).

Outdoor Dining Returns

After chilly mornings and brisk walks between heated interiors, spring sees porteños return to the pavements. It’s when patios, terraces and rooftops come back into their element. With the sun out and sunglasses on, chairs are positioned towards the sun and locals lean back with a coffee in hand like lizards warming up on a rock.

You don’t always need a plan, either. It’s more about spontaneity and letting the city do its work — simply pick a table and watch life go by. Friends stop to chat, dog-walkers wander past, business meetings take place, and someone at a nearby table is inevitably debating last night’s football match or latest national scandal. Few seem concerned that the coffee has taken 20 minutes to arrive.

The downside? You say it’s just a coffee; one friend arrives, then another, and suddenly you’ve acquired a quorum. You order a tostado especial because you skipped lunch. A beer lands at happy hour, followed by another because, well, you’re here already. By the time you do leave, you’ve spent three times more than intended, missed your first dental checkup in five years and are now moving on to a wine bar.

Culture Hits Hard

The city’s cultural calendar goes into overdrive, with events exploring aspects of the city you’ve never heard of or frequently walk past without giving second thought. Open House Buenos Aires is a prime example. Over one weekend, more than 200 activities incorporate city buildings and spaces through guided tours and biking circuits. Some are drop-in events, while others require registration.

A literary theme runs through the season. In late October the Feria del Libro Antiguo brings antique books and rare editions to Palacio Libertad. Then, La Noche de las Librerías turns Avenida Corrientes into a bookworm’s playground. Before this, you have La Noche de los Museos to squeeze in, although the smart people know to skip the endless queues and come on a standard day.

If your only previous visit to the city racetrack, Hipódromo Argentino de Palermo, was for a burger or beer festival, this is your chance to see it in its true glory. November welcomes the Gran Premio Nacional, the nation’s most prestiges race with horses, riders and owners also comporting for the Triple Corona del Turf Argentino.

Before long you’ll have walked 15kms, picked up a dusty 70-year-old tome you didn’t want and developed strong opinions on champion three-year-old colts.

Concerts Reach the Right Notes

I don’t know if it’s the good weather, artists looking to fill end-of-year dates after their summer tours, or that ticket prices have reutrned to European and North American levels, but this time of year always seems to pick up on the music front.

Movistar Arena remains the city’s top music venue, with everyone from Die Toten Hosen to Def Leppard, Ronnie Wood and ZZ Top on the horizon. Meanwhile, C Art Media will welcome back Jorja Smith. Looking for some nostalgic ’80s synthpop and ’90s electronic beats? Mandarine Park on the Costanera Norte is the place to be in late November and early December, with Underworld and New Order headlining.

Besides autumn’s Lollapalooza, spring brings the city’s best international festivals. Creamfields takes over Parque de la Ciudad for its 18th edition, while Primavera Sound returns to Tecnópolis after a three-year hiatus, this time with Gorillaz and The Strokes headlining.

It’s all music to the ears, but you might find that your definition of “I’m going to see a couple of bands” costs several hundred dollars and leaves you with a serious sleep deficit. You can always find free and low-cost gigs at legendary local venues.

Park Life Returns with Vengeance

Buenos Aires’ parks go from calm spaces to full-blown social clubs almost overnight. Locals have all but removed their six-months-a-year Uniqlo outerwear, regained the ability to walk without resembling an inflated penguin and remembered that sitting on grass is a legitimate way to while away an afternoon. Miga sandwich-laden picnic blankets, bikes and roller skates are out, there are enough thermoses on display to supply an army, and there’s usually a café, choripán stand or ice cream vendor nearby.

Hitting the parks is an enjoyable free activity anywhere. But for hardened, year-round users, the influx can catch you off guard. Lone runs become obstacle courses with the new season, new me wannabe marathon squad. Families walking five abreast along bike lanes leave you to carve out your own right of way. And overpriced organic markets overflow paths with recycled tote-bag-totting hipsters. It’s enough to make you long for the “el frio que hace por dios” sub 18°C winter that keeps most at home.

The Bottom Line

So, is spring really the best season in Buenos Aires? Probably. The city looks better, feels more alive and suddenly gives you far fewer excuses to stay indoors. Just remember: those flowers that make it look so good are also the flowers your partner expects you to bring home when the season officially arrives.

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Besides the obvious fame that comes with being Lionel Messi’s hometown, Rosario has had a yoyo reputation as a tourist destination, with safety concerns often overshadowing its offering. I last visited in 2016 for a Los Pumas v England rugby match. Back then, it felt like a city that thrived on football and nightlife, yet o…

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When the two-week school winter break approaches, and you haven’t made prior plans, the same question arises: do we stay in Buenos Aires, hope to find a last-minute deal to Europe, or travel locally? This year we went for the latter. After looking briefly at a map and realizing that the most we’d seen of Entre Ríos was either a weekend in Gualeguaychú o…

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Avenida de Mayo feels different, notably more monumental, from other streets in Buenos Aires. Opened in 1894 as the first grand boulevard, it drew inspiration from Parisian avenues and Madrid’s Gran Vía. With the presidential palace and national congress at opposite ends, it forms the city’s civic axis over 10 busy but elegant, tree-shaded blocks. Along the way, cupolas, theatres, time-honored cafés, and wrought-iron balconies create a streetscape unique to the city.

This walk reveals history embedded in the avenue’s buildings and sidewalks. Revolutions, immigration, political speeches, protests, and tango have all passed through. Newly elected presidents travel along it before taking office, and mothers and grandmothers continue to gather in search of answers about disappeared children. The entire scene maintains a symbolic air over 130 years since its inauguration, offering a window into Buenos Aires’s cultural and political identity.

• Walking distance: Roughly two kilometers

• Suggested time: Three to five hours, depending on museum stops and coffee breaks

• Good for: Architecture, history, politics, cafés, viewpoints

• When: Daytime. Late afternoon is especially atmospheric as the sun drops behind Congreso

• Best time of year: April to May for cooler walking temperatures and fall foliage. September to November, when café terraces spill onto the sidewalks and trees are in full spring bloom.

• Difficulty: Easy and flat

1. Buenos Aires’ Beginnings, History and Politics

The walk starts at Plaza de Mayo, the city’s most famous square, where the story of Buenos Aires and Argentina effectively began. It occupies the site of the original colonial settlement founded by the Spanish in the 1500s, and later became the stage for the 1810 May Revolution that set Argentina on the road to independence.

Standing in the center of the square you can sense its significance. The pink-hued presidential palace of Casa Rosada looms to the east, its balconies revered for speeches given by figures like Juan Perón and Evita. At the rear, the Museo Casa Rosada delves into the country’s turbulent political history through art, artefacts and photographs.

On the opposite side stands the Cabildo, the town hall during the colonial period, dating back to the 1580 and rebuilt in the 1700s. Past the whitewashed arches, the Museo Nacional del Cabildo sheds light on the Spanish period, British invasions and early years of independence.

The magnificent neoclassical and colonnaded entrance to the Catedral Metropolitana de Buenos Aires adds architectural flair and religious notes to the square. The former cathedral of Pope Francis, it’s worth dropping in to see the exhibits related to Argentina’s first pontiff, alongside the mausoleum of revolution hero General José de San Martín.

Between the architecture, museums and people-watching alone, it could be easy to lose half a day here. You can also technically start at either end of the avenue. This way, however, is more fitting, moving outward from the city’s birthplace while the sun illuminates the facades before setting behind Congreso.

• Good to know: Since 1977, the Mothers of Plaza de Mayo have marched around the Pirámide de Mayo every Thursday afternoon. Wearing distinctive white headscarves, they gather to preserve the memory and demand answers about children who disappeared during Argentina’s last military dictatorship.

2. Refined Residences, Mate and Tango

Leaving Plaza de Mayo behind, Avenida de Mayo quickly settles into a grand rhythm. For the next five blocks, you’re surrounded by Beaux-Arts, Art Nouveau and Neoclassical façades that hint at the wealth and European ambitions that shaped early Buenos Aires. It’s where it pays to look up and admire.

Among the grandest buildings is the Casa de la Cultura, the lavish former headquarters of La Prensa newspaper. If you have time for the 45-minute guided tour, go for it. Inside are fabric-covered ceilings, hand-painted ornamentation, marble staircases, and the Versailles-inspired Salón Dorado. It comes together to reveal the extravagant so-called golden age of Buenos Aires.

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Buenos Aires can feel loud, fast, and slightly overwhelming at first. But spend enough time here it becomes a city that rewards slow discoveries. This is the first in a series of Street Walks, starting with Avenida del Libertador, the broad avenue that cuts north from Retiro toward the Northern Suburbs of Greater Buenos Aires.

One minute you’re surrounded by railway buildings and office towers, the next by museums, university campuses and some of the city’s most-loved green space. This is a walk that gradually loosens its tie, starting hectic and historic, turning intellectual and cultural, then ending outdoorsy, relaxed and social.

• Walking distance: Approximately six kilometers

• Suggested time: Four to seven or more hours, depending on stops and activities

• Good for: Parks, museums, architecture, cafés, nightlife

• When: Daytime

• Best time of year: Spring (September to November) for blooming lapacho, palo borracho and jacaranda trees, and rose blooms

• Difficulty: Easy and flat

1. Retiro and British Connections

The organized chaos of Retiro is our starting point. Commuter trains screech into platforms, long-distance buses arrive from across Argentina, office workers move at full speed and tourists stand around trying to figure out where exactly they are. This is where Avenida del Libertador begins its 25-kilometer journey from downtown BA to San Fernando.

Start at Plaza Fuerza Aérea Argentina, home to the Torre Monumental. The 60-meter-tall clock tower was a gift from the British community in 1916. From the 6th floor deck you’ll get a glimpse of the scale and energy of BA while overlooking high-rise office blocks, railway terminals, the port and river.

Opposite, Plaza San Martín is surprisingly calm considering the traffic swirling around it. On weekdays, office workers enjoy the midday sun amid huge trees. It’s worth passing through to see the General San Martín monument, alongside the Monument to the Fallen in Malvinas. There’s a lesser-known Hito de la Argentinidad N° 12 historical marker, commemorating Argentine resistance during an 1806 British invasion.

A detail most people walk past without realizing: from 1801 to 1819 the square was home to a 10,000-seat bullring called Plaza de Toros del Retiro.

For more views from above, check out our favorite lookouts around the city here.

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When summer arrives, porteño vacation traffic typically surges toward the Atlantic coast, where the beaches stretch forever, and the crowds feel just as endless. Fortunately, Buenos Aires Province (for context, roughly the size of Italy) has an impressive lineup of lakeside towns that offer a cooler, calmer vibe. Scattered across the pampas, these breezy lagoons swap beach congestion for small-town charm and laid-back watersports. Well-loved by those in the know, they promise a rewarding alternative when you’re craving water without the coastal crowds.

5 Great Lakeside Towns for Summer

1. Chascomús

About 120km south of Buenos Aires, Chascomús is among the most accessible and arguably most famous of the Buenos Aires Province lake towns. It sits on the shores of the eponymous Laguna de Chascomús, which is the largest of a chain of lagoons called Las Encadenadas. The town began as Fortín de San Juan Bautista, a frontier fort that served as the site of a short-lived rebellion in 1839. Following the arrival of the railroad in 1865, it became recognized as a weekend escape. Today, it’s just a 90-minute drive from the city and is also accessible via regular public bus and train services.

Life here revolves around the water, with the lake delivering opportunities to try kayaking, kite surfing, paddleboarding, and windsurfing, or embark on fishing excursions. From sunrise to sunset, you’ll meet people walking, jogging, and biking along the lake’s Costanera promenade. It stretches for 3km and is bordered by green spaces and picnic areas like Parque de los Libres del Sur. It’s a solid 32km to complete the full lake loop. For a cultural fix, stop by Museo Pampeano to learn about gauchos and life in the countryside, and check out the colonial buildings around Plaza Independencia.

Restaurant Picks in Chascomús

• Il Ristorantino Di Terra Lucana (Santiago Roca 631): The town’s cherished Italian restaurant serving up homemade pastas, wood-fired pizzas, and more.

• Café Mulé (Av. Costanera España): All day spot for pastries and brunch, sandwiches, milanesas, and fish dishes, live music and the best lake views.

• Restaurante Vieja Esquina (Artigas y Av. Costanera España): Traditional parrilla for juicy cuts of meat served with fries and salads at friendly prices.

• Teòfilo Bar (Libres del Sur 156): Laidback gastropub offering classic Argentine fare and fish dishes.

• Lo de Mirta (Franklín 564): Long-running town staple for no-frills lunches and dinners, hearty portions, and wallet-friendly prices.

Accommodation Picks in Chascomús

• Cabañas La Soñada (De los Biguás 26): Four rustic and budget self-catering cabins on the southeast side of the lagoon with a shared pool, playground, and parking.

• La Botica de 1852 (Cramer 223): Boutique hotel set inside a renovated pharmacy with rooms that give an air of artsy and colonial charm.

• Estancia la Alameda (Camino de Circunvalación KM 12, 6): Large ranch with nine suites for two to six guests in addition to three glamping domes.

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2. Carhué and Villa Epecuén

Set on the shores of the mineral-rich Lago Epecuén, Carhué has long been known for wellness travel. A six-hour drive (550km), or overnight bus ride from the city, people have been coming for the lagoon’s salty, therapeutic water for over a century. Hot-spring pools and mud treatments await at Parque Termal Epecuén. The town is also part of the Ruta Salamónica, which celebrates the bold Art Deco–futurist legacy of architect Francisco Salamone. You’ll spot his monumental designs in the municipal buildings and cemetery portals around town. At the center, the monument-clad and tree-lined Plaza Levalle sets an easygoing tone – look out for the historic, 100-foot-tall tree.

Many visitors to Carhué, however, are drawn by the mysteries of nearby Villa Epecuén. Once Argentina’s chicest spa resort, it went from glamor to ghost town in 1985 when a catastrophic seiche submerged it under over 30 feet of water. Approximately 280 businesses and homes were destroyed, forcing residents to flee. It wasn’t until 2009 that the water receded, revealing a village of petrified trees and derelict buildings. Walking its streets today is a compelling snapshot of a once-golden era of travel and leisure in Argentina. For wildlife lovers, the lake attracts the Americas’ second-largest colony of Chilean flamingos, as well as thousands of phalarope shorebirds on their migration from Canada to the south.

Restaurant Picks in Carhué

• Pizza Flama (Av. Colón 461): Wood fire and Neapolitan-style pizzas for in-house dining or takeaway.

• La Francesa Pastelería - Panadería Artesanal (Av. San Martín 1032): Popular bakery packed with tempting sweet and savory treats, great for enjoying while sitting in the adjacent plaza.

• Lo de Juan (Av. Colón 1412): Owner-run parrilla, big cuts of meat, local comfort food, and a solid wine selection.

Accommodation Picks in Carhué

• Complejo Termal Levalle (Morena y Lomas Valentinas): Well-equipped campsite and self-catering cabins for three to six guests plus pool and thermal spa.

• Epecuén Hotel & Spa Termal (Roque Sáenz Peña 880): Family-run hotel with buffet breakfast, thermal pool, spa, sauna, and kids’ play areas on the town’s main square.

• Hotel Carhué Spa Termal (Dorrego 520): Mid-range hotel with spacious rooms and apartments, pool, spa treatments, and massage services.

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Buenos Aires is packed with small, surprising museums that reveal curious snippets of the city, national history, and culture. So it’s time to skip the typical MALBA and the Bellas Artes trail and step inside a train heritage hall, a former home of Diego Maradona, and a theater workshop instead. Here are eight (almost) off-the-radar museums that celebra…

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It’s no secret that Buenos Aires’ nightlife comes in all shapes and forms, but a relatively new scene of themed bars and restaurants takes the imagination to new levels. A simple night, or afternoon out, can now easily drop you into an ‘80s time warp, manga lounge, or a pop culture universe. Many of these places go beyond the decorations, too. They prom…

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In Buenos Aires, the midday lunch is a smart way to eat out without seeing your wallet have palpitations. Across the city, more restaurants are offering the menú de mediodía (aka menú ejecutivo): its proper plates, quality ingredients, an included drink, and often the choice of either a starter or dessert. From local bodegon favorites to parrillas and g…

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