Secondly, the Escapement is an event “for collectors, by collectors”, and two of the organizers are friends of mine: Faheem, author of ScrewDownCrown (SDC), and Marko, creator of SwissWatchGang. They and the rest of the core team are genuine collectors at heart and have worked hard to turn their vision into reality.

Faheem and his business partner, Neeshu, have had to manage the tremendous amount of work involved in changing the venue, while Marko has outdone himself with his excellent interview series, “The Road to The Escapement.” The least I can do to support them is to attend the event.

Then there is the new Rubis Awards, conceived to recognize excellence in horological craftsmanship. The awards ceremony will take place on the final evening of the Escapement. I was so impressed by its vision of including all watch brands, without the option to opt out, and having experts in their respective fields serve as judges that I reached out to Mike Capps, the founder of this new awards program.

Mike kindly invited me to review drafts of the rules and award categories, and carefully considered my feedback. It turned out that I was the last person to review the drafts before they went live on the website. I also had the opportunity to meet Mike in person during New York Watch Week and learn more about his vision and the progress he had made. I came away even more excited about the awards.

Now that I’ve decided to attend, I’d love to encourage readers and fellow watch collectors to consider going as well. It promises to be a watch event unlike any other, and a lot of fun!

Here are my top 10 reasons why you shouldn’t miss the Escapement and Rubis Awards.

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1. Meeting Top Watchmakers and Brand Leaders

I have visited Rexhep Rexhepi’s workshop in Geneva twice, but he wasn’t there on either occasion. I did get to meet him at last year’s Dubai Watch Week, and I look forward to seeing him again in Las Vegas in February. I may even bring my ACM book, “Rexhep Rexhepi 2012–2024,” for him to sign, haha.

Another horological hero of mine is Romain Gauthier, although I don’t own one of his creations yet. I enjoyed his interview with Marko, and he came across as such a nice, down-to-earth guy. I’ve heard about his Logical 2, and perhaps he’ll share a few secrets with us.

Michel Nydegger, the young CEO of Greubel Forsey, will also be at the Escapement. I’m curious to see what extraordinary timepieces he will bring to the event.

With so many brand founders, watchmakers, and industry leaders attending, I’m sure you’ll find some of your own horological heroes, enjoy a chat, and perhaps even a handshake that leads to a future allocation.

2. Brand Presentations

With the move to Las Vegas, additional brands are considering joining the event. After all, the US is the largest market for Swiss watches and continues to show impressive growth. While some participating brands have already been announced on the official website, the organizers are expected to reveal the complete lineup very soon.

The confirmed participants include some of the most renowned names in independent watchmaking, such as F.P. Journe, Romain Gauthier, Rexhep Rexhepi, Greubel Forsey, Konstantin Chaykin, Moritz Grossmann, and Lang & Heyne. Some of these brands rarely participate in watch events, making their presence at the Escapement particularly exciting.

Every participating brand will have an opportunity to present on the main stage, either in its own session or alongside other brands. Some will even use this opportunity to unveil new models in front of an audience of dedicated collectors and enthusiasts.

As the brands share their histories, stories, and creations, attendees will have a great opportunity to discover new brands and learn more about those they already know. Personally, I especially look forward to presentations by Konstantin Chaykin, Yosuke Sekiguchi, Luca Soprana, Emmanuel Esposito, and 1776 Atelier.

3. Stellar Speaker Lineup

The initial list of speakers on the official website is already very impressive, with a few more heavyweight speakers expected to be announced. The program will feature both panel discussions and individual talks.

I particularly look forward to seeing Eric Ku on stage. He is a seasoned collector, a trustee of the Horological Society of New York (HSNY), and a savvy entrepreneur. Eric co-founded LA WatchWorks and Loupe This, which I’ve used to sell a few watches.

Many years ago, I reached out to Eric on Instagram with some watch-related questions, and he kindly took the time to provide detailed answers. My dream panel would bring together Eric Ku, Silas Walton, Yoni Ben-Yehuda, and Tony Traina to share their insights into the latest trends in watch collecting.

Speakers from the watch brands include Rexhep Rexhepi, Romain Gauthier, and Michel Nydegger, along with Alexia Genta, daughter of Gérald Genta. From the watch media, the lineup includes Justin Hast, Chris Hall, Erika, also known as Miss GMT, and Andrew Morgan.

4. Hands-on Horological Experiences

The organizing team of the Escapement has been working hard to arrange a variety of hands-on horological experiences, all included in the ticket price. Confirmed activities include enameling and watchmaking classes conducted by the Horological Society of New York (HSNY).

I have seen enameling furnaces before, but have never watched the entire process, let alone tried it myself. It’s exciting to think that an enameling station will be set up right at the event venue, where attendees can take a lesson and learn about this ancient craft.

I’ve taken Horology 101 through 104 with HSNY, and I would highly recommend these classes. Normally, HSNY offers them in New York and a handful of other cities, mostly in North America, through its Traveling Education program. The Escapement will be a great opportunity for those who might not otherwise have easy access to these classes.

I look forward to learning more about the full lineup of experiences and how attendees can sign up.

5. Meeting Fellow Collectors and Enthusiasts

One of the best parts of attending a watch event is meeting and chatting with fellow collectors and enthusiasts, often putting faces to the names we’ve come to know online. With two full days of activities at T-Mobile Arena, there will be plenty of opportunities to catch up with old friends and make new ones.

The evening entertainment on both days, which I’ll discuss shortly, will offer even more opportunities to mingle and enjoy each other’s company.

6. Meeting the Content Creators

As watch enthusiasts, we all consume tons of watch content every day: articles, podcasts, Instagram posts, and YouTube videos. I was pleasantly surprised by how many popular content creators will be attending the Escapement. To me, some of them are big stars in the watch world, and I’d love to take a selfie with them!

Andrew Morgan was the man behind “The Talking Hands” of the Watchfinder YouTube channel, which produced fantastic watch videos for many years. His video featuring Johannes Kallinich’s Masterwork timepiece played a key role in Johannes’ decision to found Kallinich Claeys. I was once in discussions with Andrew about sending him one of my watches for review. Andrew now runs his own YouTube channel, “Andrew Morgan Watches,” and I look forward to meeting him for the first time.

Many of you may be fans of the YouTube channel SwissWatchGang, created by Marko, who was a watch collector long before becoming a YouTuber. Marko purchased an Otsuka Lotec No. 6 “Meteo Dial” directly from Jiro Katayama five or six years ago, long before the brand became red-hot. He still owns the watch today. Marko also purchased a Joker “Piece Unique” from Konstantin Chaykin back in 2017.

Marko is known for discovering and interviewing talented young independent watchmakers and featuring their work on his channel. If you’re into indies, don’t miss the opportunity to ask Marko which emerging brands have caught his attention lately.

If you’re a subscriber to The Fourth Wheel, this will be an opportunity to meet its author, Chris Hall, who will be a speaker and co-host at the Escapement. Subscribers to Unpolished Watches will also have a chance to meet its author, Tony Traina. And if you’re a fan of ScrewDownCrown, you’ll have a chance to rub elbows with its author, Kingflum, who is also one of the people behind this very event.

7. Comedy Night and DreamHouse

In a first for a watch event, the Escapement will feature two evenings of entertainment for all attendees. These should be wonderful opportunities to have fun together with fellow watch lovers and create some lasting memories.

On Saturday evening, there will be a Comedy Night at T-Mobile Arena, with doors opening at 7 p.m. and the show starting at 8 p.m. I can already imagine some jokes about watch collectors, as we sometimes do things that seem completely insane to non-watch people, haha.

On Sunday evening, the Rubis Awards ceremony will be followed by a live performance by DreamHouse, at the same venue and with the same evening schedule.

DreamHouse is a new band recently formed by James McVey and Connor Ball of the four-member British pop band The Vamps, together with producer Alex Stacey. It is a side project while The Vamps takes a break, and DreamHouse played its first show in London on March 10, 2026.

Now, you may recognize the name James McVey and know that he is a big watch guy. I’ve probably listened to every episode of “A Podcast About Watches,” hosted by Andrew Morgan and James McVey.

So, yes, there’s a good chance we’ll see James around the event, say hello, and perhaps chat about watches with him.

8. The Inaugural Rubis Awards

The GPHG is the Oscars of the watch industry that we love to hate. We follow the awards closely every year, from the announcement of participating watches to the nominations and the final winners in each category, revealed in November. Personally, I’ve discovered many new brands through the GPHG, which I greatly appreciate. It has become a de facto marketing platform for both big brands and young independents alike.

Yet, we often complain about the lack of participation by some top brands, the award categories, and the results. Year after year, however, no one has really tried to do anything about it, until Mike Capps threw his hat into the ring.

Mike is a veteran of the tech industry and served as President of Epic Games for 10 years. He also served on the board of the Academy of Interactive Arts & Sciences, which organizes the D.I.C.E. Awards. Mike is also a seasoned and passionate watch collector who actively participates in various watch collector chat groups.

Mike founded the Rubis Foundation in January 2026 to establish the Rubis Awards (Prix Rubis), with the goal of recognizing excellence in watchmaking as judged by experts in their respective crafts. The awards focus more on technical innovations and achievement than commercial success.

To achieve this goal, Mike first focused on recruiting experts from various fields of watchmaking to serve as jury members. He then began drafting the rules for the Rubis Awards, ensuring that all eligible brands would be considered, without the option to opt out. Competing watches can be nominated by the brands themselves, jury members, or Rubis Foundation staff.

When a watch is nominated by a jury member, the brand is notified and invited to participate by providing supporting materials for the jury’s evaluation. If the brand declines, the Foundation staff will prepare the materials based on publicly available product and technical information.

Hopefully, this will encourage brands to participate actively and improve their chances of winning, since opting out of the competition is not an option. Furthermore, there is no fee for brands to nominate their own watches or to be nominated by others. However, all nominations are subject to approval by the jury committee to ensure that participating watches meet the required standards of quality.

The result is that the best watches in each category from a given year can compete against one another, regardless of whether their brands choose to participate.

The inaugural Rubis Awards ceremony will take place on February 7, 2027, in collaboration with the Escapement. All watches commercially delivered in 2026 will be eligible for consideration.

9. Founding Jury Members

The founding jury has been established. Its members are responsible for defining the award categories, judging standards, and principles that will guide the Rubis Awards. They will also participate in the voting process, alongside a broader panel of jurors.

Here is the list of founding jury members, in alphabetical order:

• Theo Auffret, Theo Auffret | Parisian Watchmaking

• Florian Bedat, Petermann Bedat | Atelier Watchmaking

• David Bernard, Greubel Forsey and Time Aeon | Craft and Complications

• Emmanuel Bouchet, Emmanuel Bouchet | Independent Watchmaker

• Mathieu Cleguer, Movement Architect

• Nicolas Delaloye, Delaloye Genève | Handmade Watchmaking

• Cyrano Devanthey, Founder and Watchmaker | Oscillon

• Romain Gauthier, Romain Gauthier | Evolution of Tradition

• Claude Greisler, Armin Strom | Movement Architecture

• Vianney Halter, Vianney Halter | Watchmaker from the Future

• Carole Kasapi, Movements and Strategy

• Luc Monnet, Arts Mecaniques | Complication Prototyping

• Raul Pages, Raul Pages | Restoration and Independent Creation

• Gael Petermann, Petermann Bedat | Atelier Watchmaking

• Sylvain Pinaud, Sylvain Pinaud | Independent Craftsman

• Antoine Preziuso, Antoine Preziuso Geneve | Master of Tourbillons

• Dominique Renaud, Dominique Renaud | Technical Pioneer

• David Serra, ZENITH Watches | Technical Director

• Josh Shapiro, J. N. Shapiro | American Watchmaking and Guilloché

• Luca Soprana, Soprana Watches | Complication Development

• Andreas Strehler, Strehler | Movement Engineering

• Dr. Rebecca Struthers, Struthers Watchmakers | Horological History and Craft

Notably, Mike Capps, founder and Chairman of the Rubis Foundation, does not sit on the jury. Mike sees his role as building an institution that watchmakers themselves respect, safeguarding the independence of the jury, and ensuring that outstanding horological achievements receive the recognition they deserve.

I asked Mike whether some of the jury members would attend the February 7 awards ceremony. “As many as I can get there! Several are exhibiting and will present awards,” he replied.

10. Intriguing Award Categories

The Rubis Awards feature two groups of categories: Individual and Broader Recognition Awards, and Core Technical Awards. Here is the complete list of categories, along with examples of watches that would qualify for various awards.

Individual and Broader Recognition

• Watchmaker of the Year

• Horological Revelation Prize

• Lifetime Contribution to Watchmaking Prize

• Contribution to the Craft Prize

Core Technical Awards

Escapement & Oscillator Innovation Prize

Illustrative examples:

• Rolex — Land-Dweller

• Cleguer — Inspiration One

• Urban Jürgensen — UJ-2: Double Wheel Natural Escapement

Chronometric Innovation Prize

Illustrative examples:

• Grand Seiko — Spring Drive U.F.A.

• Breguet — Classique Régulateur à Pivot Magnétique 7225

• Ferdinand Berthoud — Chronomètre FB 2TV

Energy & Power Management Prize

Illustrative examples:

• Urban Jürgensen — UJ-1: 250th Anniversary Tourbillon Remontoire d’Égalité

• Arnold & Son — Constant Force Tourbillon 11

• Audemars Piguet — Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5

Movement Architecture & Integration Prize

Illustrative examples:

• Urban Jürgensen — UJ-3: Perpetual Calendar with Double Wheel Escapement

• Parmigiani Fleurier — Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux

• Berneron — Quantième Annuel

Chronograph Construction Prize

Illustrative examples:

• Audemars Piguet — Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5

• Parmigiani Fleurier — Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux

• Rexhep Rexhepi — Chronograph Flyback

Calendar & Astronomical Mechanisms Prize

Illustrative examples:

• Audemars Piguet — Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar

• Christiaan van der Klaauw — CVDK Venus Annual Calendar

• Krayon — Anyday

Mechanical Function Innovation Prize

Illustrative examples:

• Bovet 1822 — Récital 30

• Hermès — Hermès Cut Le temps suspendu

• Dominique Renaud — Pulse60 Titanium Black

Materials Innovation & Structural Engineering Prize

Illustrative examples:

• Rolex — Land-Dweller

• Parmigiani Fleurier — Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Ultra-Cermet

• Chopard — Alpine Eagle 41 SL Cadence 8HF

Mechanical Display & Indication Prize

Illustrative examples:

• Parmigiani Fleurier — Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux

• Stéphane Pierre — L’Impétrant

• Otsuka Lotec — No. 8

Movement Finishing Prize

Illustrative examples:

• Rexhep Rexhepi — Chronograph Flyback

• Sylvain Pinaud — 30s Tourbillon

• Greubel Forsey — Balancier QM

Excellence at Scale Prize

Illustrative examples:

• Audemars Piguet — Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar

• Grand Seiko — Spring Drive U.F.A. SLGB003

• Rolex — Land-Dweller

Striking & Acoustics Prize

Illustrative examples:

• Armin Strom — 11:59 Repeater

• Chopard — L.U.C Grand Strike

• Vacheron Constantin — Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – La Première

Timepiece Restoration Prize

Now, we begin to see why this “new kid on the block” offers a refreshing alternative that could complement the GPHG, or perhaps even challenge it one day. First, let’s look at some new award categories that are not found at the GPHG.

Movement finishing has become an increasingly important and fascinating subject for collectors and watch media alike. Gorgeous macro shots on Instagram showcase exceptional finishing, while watchmakers and brands are devoting more attention to this aspect of watchmaking. But who really produces the best movement finishing? Now, we have an award category dedicated to this very subject, with experts in the field helping us find the answer.

Another intriguing new category is the Mechanical Display & Indication Prize, which recognizes innovations in the way time and other information are displayed.

In this year’s GPHG “Mechanical Exception” category, Mineroci’s watch featuring a remontoir d’égalité and deadbeat seconds is competing against Konstantin Chaykin’s ultra-thin watch and several minute repeaters. These are very different types of mechanical achievements. The Rubis Awards, on the other hand, offer more specialized categories, such as the Striking & Acoustics Prize, Energy & Power Management Prize, Movement Architecture & Integration Prize, and Mechanical Function Innovation Prize.

With all watch brands included in the competition, we could see some fascinating matchups that were not possible before. For example, we could see Rolex’s Dynapulse escapement system compared with Mathieu Cleguer’s Innate Escapement to determine which represents a more significant horological innovation.

Between Audemars Piguet’s RD#5 and Rexhep Rexhepi’s Chronograph Flyback, which will win over the experts? And when it comes to movement finishing, how will Rexhep, Sylvain Pinaud, and other exceptional watchmakers stack up?

Lastly, the Individual and Broader Recognition Awards, such as Watchmaker of the Year, could become the most prestigious prizes of the Rubis Awards, attracting considerable attention from collectors and the watch industry alike.

General Admission All Access

The General Admission (GA) All Access ticket offers the full weekend experience on Saturday and Sunday, including all exhibitions, talks, panel discussions, hands-on horological experiences, and evening entertainment. In other words, it covers everything I’ve discussed in the 10 reasons to attend the Escapement.

The GA All Access ticket is priced at $505.50 before Nevada’s 9% Live Entertainment Tax (LET) and service fees. Including these additional charges, the total comes to $654.58. This is currently the lowest early-bird price, so ticket prices may increase in the future.

The event organizers receive $505.50 per GA ticket, which must cover the cost of renting T-Mobile Arena and all other event expenses.

To me, the ticket price is quite reasonable and represents good value, considering the two full days of thoughtfully planned activities and opportunities to engage with brands. For US-based collectors in particular, having so many top and emerging independent brands gathered in one place is an opportunity not to miss.

VIP All Access

The VIP All Access package includes an exclusive Friday evening event at Wynn Las Vegas, from 6 p.m. to 11 p.m. The highlight will be a charity auction hosted by Phillips, featuring exceptional timepieces, rare experiences, and one-of-a-kind opportunities. All proceeds will benefit the Tyler Robinson Foundation (TRF), which supports families affected by pediatric cancer, and the Horological Society of New York (HSNY).

One notable auction lot is a wall clock donated by F.P.Journe, featuring a dial personally signed by François-Paul Journe himself.

The VIP package also includes early access to the exhibition floor on both Saturday and Sunday. These additional privileges bring the ticket price to $1,755.50 before local taxes and service fees. The final total is $2075.67 with taxes and fees.

Vegas Calling

Las Vegas has become one of the major watch destinations in the US. While there is still no Audemars Piguet boutique in the San Francisco Bay Area, there is one in Las Vegas. Some of my watch friends in California even travel to Las Vegas specifically to shop for watches.

Time to Watches chose Las Vegas as its first location outside Geneva. Its June 2027 event in Las Vegas will be the second edition, following a successful debut this year. Earlier this summer, the inaugural “Time at Wynn” was held at Wynn Las Vegas, with Martin Frei of URWERK, Pierre Halimi of F.P. Journe, and Alex and Victor of Hazemann & Monnin among the invited guests.

Come February next year, the Escapement will make its Las Vegas debut with a three-day event. We often say, “Come for the watches, stay for the people.” The Escapement promises to be a wonderful opportunity to meet fellow watch lovers, engage with the industry, reconnect with old friends, make new ones, and simply have a great time. I’m certainly excited!

Please drop me a line if you plan to attend. It would be great to meet up!

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Now, if you’ve made it this far, I actually have something for you! Thanks to the event organizers, I expect to receive some discount codes for tickets to share with my readers. If you’re interested, please reply to this newsletter or reach out to me on Instagram. I’ll share a code with you as soon as it’s available.

In addition to WatchTime and Windup, there were Indies.nyc, The Hype, the Cellini Watch Fair, the FHH Watch Summit, and many other smaller events and meetups. The sheer number of participating brands and attendees from around the world was simply incredible.

With so much happening, I inevitably missed many brands and some events due to scheduling conflicts and long lines. As a result, this photo report offers only a limited glimpse of the entire New York Watch Week. Nevertheless, I had a wonderful time meeting fellow watch lovers, talking with brands and watchmakers, and experiencing so many fascinating timepieces.

All photos were taken by the author during New York Watch Week unless otherwise credited. Please click on the images to view them in high resolution.

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Watchmaker’s Watchmaker

Kallinich Claeys was one of the brands I most looked forward to meeting. Just 10 days before Indies.nyc, Johannes Kallinich and his twin sister Marie personally delivered an EINSER Voyager to Philippe Dufour. The movement featured an engraving of a pipe, a familiar sight in photos of Dufour.

At the 2025 AHCI Exhibition, Dufour visited Johannes’ stand and spent quite some time examining his watches. Dufour is known to be a fan of the Datograph by A. Lange & Söhne, where Johannes previously worked and honed his watchmaking skills.

Madame Dufour noticed her husband’s interest and decided to purchase a watch for him. The Voyager, unveiled at last year’s Dubai Watch Week, is the latest creation from Kallinich Claeys. Dufour’s piece was the first Voyager to be delivered to a client.

Johannes still fondly remembers that extraordinary day, which ended with a dinner gathering with the Dufour family. I couldn’t wait to see the Voyager prototype at Indies.nyc myself and snapped a few pictures.

So, JLC will have to share this title with Johannes: watchmaker’s watchmaker.

MB&F LM01 EVO

Just in time for WatchTime New York, MB&F launched the LM01 EVO, a sportier version of the original LM01. First introduced in 2011, the LM01 marked the beginning of a whole new collection, representing the brand’s interpretation of more traditional watchmaking.

The LM01 EVO features an inclined power reserve indicator and is available in titanium and rose gold cases. While the updated dial retains an avant-garde look, the movement side showcases traditional watchmaking, with Kari Voutilainen having served as a design partner.

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 3SPC

Ferdinand Berthoud, the ultra-high-end sister brand of Chopard, is a grail brand for many watch collectors. Even its entry-level model, the Chronomètre FB 3SPC, first launched in 2021, is priced at around $200,000. Only about 35 pieces of the FB 3SPC are produced each year. A new titanium-cased version was introduced at Geneva Watch Days a few months ago.

It is a three-hand watch featuring an intriguing cylindrical hairspring, which can be seen through an opening on the side of the case. What a great party trick for a watch lovers’ meetup, haha.

RGM Model 501-PC “Perpetual Calendar”

I had the chance to meet Roland Murphy, founder of RGM Watches, for the first time. For this occasion, I wore my custom RGM Model 25 “Birds of America.” Roland was talking to someone when I arrived, so I waited at the stand. When he was free, I said, “I want to show you a watch,” and extended my wrist toward him.

“Very nice! We are making another one just like this,” he said. Of course, the new client would have the opportunity to choose a painting from the 435 illustrations in The Birds of America by the famed naturalist and painter John James Audubon, published between 1827 and 1838. Roland would then work with French artist Isabelle Villa to recreate the selected painting on the dial.

Roland took a few wrist shots of my watch, which he later posted on his Instagram account.

There was another watch I came specifically to see, the Model 501-PC “Perpetual Calendar,” launched just ahead of WatchTime. Measuring 39 mm in diameter and 11.5 mm thick, it is quite slim for a perpetual calendar. The fired enamel dial is inspired by perpetual calendar pocket watches from the late 1890s.

While at the RGM stand, I also took a wrist shot with another RGM enthusiast. Then, I watched a demonstration of a rose engine machine set up by the RGM team.

Krayon Anywhere Mother-of-Pearl (Off Catalog)

I’m a sucker for mother-of-pearl (MOP) dials, so when I saw Ms. Fei Hou, co-founder of Krayon, wearing an Anywhere with a MOP dial, I had to ask to take a closer look. She was in New York City to attend the Cellini Watch Fair, as Krayon is one of the brands carried by Cellini.

Krayon spared no expense in sourcing the highest-grade MOP dials. These cloud-like surfaces appear almost pure white, without the usual iridescent colors. This is an off-catalog model that can be requested even by first-time clients.

Moritz Grossmann Tourbillon Tremblage

The Tourbillon Tremblage was released in 2025 by Moritz Grossmann as an eight-piece limited edition. The 16 mm flying tourbillon completes one rotation every three minutes. It operates at a frequency of 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz) and offers a 73-hour power reserve.

The traditional tremblage technique is used to create a warm salmon-colored surface, meticulously engraved by hand with a burin. The dial features a regulator-style layout, with a central seconds hand and separate subdials for the hours and minutes.

Legare Chapter 1 AGP Inverted

When Legare, a new brand co-founded by Wei Koh and Guillaume Tetu, was launched during this year’s Watches and Wonders, I was fortunate to be in the room and witnessed history in the making. The mission of the new brand is to reinterpret some of the greatest creations in horological history.

Chapter 1 is an inverted interpretation of a double-balance chronometer by Albert Gustave Piguet, the legendary technical director of Lemania from 1948 to 1980. The new prototypes shown at Indies.nyc looked even better than those presented at the April launch. I could hardly bring myself to return the watch to Wei, haha.

Kortela Valta Toka Winter

No, the young independent Finnish brand didn’t come to New York City. Founders and watchmakers Roope and Reni must have their hands full, as all their released models have sold out.

A friend of mine recently took delivery of the Toka Winter from the brand’s second collection, which consists of four variants representing the four seasons. Each variant is limited to just six pieces, as the watches are handmade and require considerable time to produce.

This was perhaps the only Toka in the US right now, so I asked my friend if he could bring it along for me to see. We met up at the Indies.nyc venue, where he handed me the watch.

The black enamel dial is notoriously difficult to photograph because of reflections, so my photos above don’t quite do the watch justice. The watch looked much better in person indeed.

The dial is crafted using the traditional champlevé enamel technique, in which recesses are first carved into a silver base, creating “walls” to contain the enamel. An enamel artisan based in Neuchâtel, Switzerland, makes the dials.

The movement is built around a vintage Omega gear train, with custom German silver bridges and a fully in-house free-sprung balance wheel featuring platinum timing weights. The components are machined in Finland, then finished and decorated at the Kortela Valta workshop.

The layout of the bridges is pleasing and well-balanced, and I especially love the circle formed around the balance wheel. Under a loupe, the Geneva stripes and bevelling are beautifully executed, with the bevels polished to a mirror shine.

The Toka Winter and Summer have sold out, but the Spring and Autumn versions, featuring a vivid green and a very dark violet with a subtle sparkle, respectively, will become available soon. The price is under €30,000.

Christopher Ward C1 Loco Classic

The Christopher Ward C1 Loco Classic was officially launched on the first day of Windup. However, thanks to its submission to the GPHG and selection as a finalist in the “Petite Aiguille” category, its existence was already an open secret.

Still, when I saw it for the first time in New York, I was struck by its minimalist beauty and modern yet classic elegance. The price tag? Just under $6,000. Christopher Ward certainly has a winner on its hands.

Kari Voutilainen Mini Exhibition

Master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen has been a constant presence at WatchTime New York since its inaugural edition in 2015. More recently, he has been accompanied by the company’s CEO, Angélique Singele, making it easier for them to engage with collectors and enthusiasts visiting the booth.

This year, Kari decided to do something different by showcasing a collection of 16 timepieces made over the years, all powered by Caliber VINGT-8. Remarkably, all 16 timepieces are owned by a single US-based collector. Even more insanely, this amazing set represents only a portion of the collector’s Voutilainen collection.

It was a real treat to see so many of Kari’s creations together in one location.

Caliber VINGT-8 was Kari’s first in-house movement, developed in 2008 and launched in 2011. The final timepiece to feature this legendary movement is the 28MPR, which incorporates a moonphase indicator and a power reserve indicator.

We can divide these timepieces into several groups, starting with those featuring hand-guilloché dials, followed by the inverted and openworked models, and finally those with artistic dials created by the renowned Kitamura Studio.

Kari closed his order book earlier this year due to the long waiting list. Yet, he and Angélique still traveled to New York City to present a marvelous mini-exhibition of timepieces powered by a movement no longer in production. They clearly enjoy engaging with collectors and showcasing their past creations. Their passion for horology and artistic craftsmanship is evident. And it is this shared passion that brought so many watch brands, watchmakers, collectors, and enthusiasts together for a fantastic week.

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Within a short period after the award, the rising stars of the independent watchmaking scene received more than 1,500 inquiries from people interested in buying their watch. It is not hard to understand the excitement.

Only 20 pieces were made for the initial Subscription Edition of the Hazemann & Monnin School Watch, split between the Hazemann and Monnin versions. Unfortunately for those new inquiries, the allocations had most likely been decided long before the award was announced.

That also makes it easy to appreciate just how lucky my good friend DY is, as he is one of those 20 owners. He recently took delivery of his watch directly from Victor and Alex.

“I never thought I could like any one watch this much,” he told me later.

That is quite a statement, considering his exquisite collection includes timepieces from A. Lange & Söhne, Vacheron Constantin, Patek Philippe, and F.P.Journe. I’m sure Alex and Victor would be extremely happy to hear such high praise from a seasoned collector.

I had been bugging DY to let me see his new watch, and he kindly found time to fulfill my wish. We met for lunch, and I brought along my camera and a loupe.

I got about 20 minutes with the watch and took plenty of pictures. It is a stunning timepiece, and I was blown away. Quite simply, it looks much better in person than in any of the photographs I had seen before.

I cannot wait to share my photos and first impressions with you. This is not meant to be a proper review, although I do plan to get DY to share more about his experience wearing the watch.

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A Shared Journey, 11 Years and Counting

The name School Watch may create the impression that its creators are relatively inexperienced, or that the watch is simply a modified version of an existing movement. In reality, Victor and Alex have been studying and practicing watchmaking for more than 11 years. The production version of the School Watch delivered to clients is built around an in-house movement, developed on an unusually aggressive schedule.

Before getting into the watch itself, it is worth looking at their shared journey so far, as illustrated below.

Victor and Alex attended Lycée Edgar Faure in Morteau, a school known for its teaching of artisanal watchmaking. Together, they completed three successive qualifications over seven years, from 2015 to 2022.

They began with the CAP Horlogerie, which provided the technical foundations of watchmaking. They then moved on to the BMA Horlogerie, with more advanced training in repair, restoration, and craftsmanship. Their final stage was the three-year DN MADE Horlogerie, which expanded into design, conception, prototyping, and the development of more ambitious horological projects.

In other words, their education progressed from learning the fundamentals of the trade to developing the skills needed to conceive and create watches of their own. The final stage culminated in the creation of a school watch.

François-Paul Journe launched the Young Talent Competition in 2015 to support young watchmakers and help give them visibility as they begin their careers. In his words, the goal was to give newcomers a kind of “first page of a book that forms this life as a watchmaker,” like the first time their names and photographs appeared in a newspaper or magazine.

Alex and Victor submitted their joint school watch project in 2023 and won. The jury that year included Philippe Dufour, Andreas Strehler, Giulio Papi, Marc Jenni, Michael Tay, Elizabeth Doerr, and François-Paul Journe.

This recognition gave the talented duo a major boost at an important moment in their careers. It brought their work to the attention of collectors and the wider watch community, while opening doors that might otherwise have taken years to reach. Just as importantly, it seems to have reinforced their confidence in taking the independent path and eventually establishing their own brand.

A few years later, Hazemann & Monnin has grown into a team of about 20 people and has begun delivering watches to clients such as my friend DY. That is quite a journey from a school project completed by two classmates.

Hands-on with the Watch

The Hazemann & Monnin School Watch Subscription actually consists of two watches with different dials built around the same movement. One was designed by Alex, while the other was designed by Victor. My friend DY owns the Monnin edition, with the dial designed by Victor and featuring three stone subdials.

The School Watch features two impressive complications: a passing strike, or hourly chime, and an instantaneous jumping hour. At the top of each hour, the hour indication jumps at exactly the same moment that the hammer strikes the gong. Getting both actions to happen in perfect synchronization makes the timing and energy management especially challenging.

While the original school project used a La Joux-Perret base movement, the movement inside the School Watch Subscription, Calibre HM01, was designed from scratch without relying on an existing architecture. That alone is quite an achievement for their first commercial watch.

Hazemann & Monnin also carries out nearly all of the work in-house, including making about 90% of the components. All of the finishing work is done in-house as well.

When DY and I sat down in a quiet spot, I asked him where the watch was. He simply pulled back his sleeve and revealed the School Watch on his wrist.

I first took a few photographs of it on the wrist. Then he took it off and handed it to me so I could spend some time taking static shots and macro photographs.

For the next 20 minutes or so, I had the watch, my camera, and my loupe all to myself.

Please enjoy the photos.

While I had seen many pictures of this watch, the all-new production piece felt very different in the metal. It was much more three-dimensional, colorful, and alive. From every angle, there was something to catch the eye: the vivid stone dials, the large mirror-polished components, the oversized jewels, and the strong sense of symmetry on both the front and back.

The watch feels modern with its partially openworked front, stone subdials, and symmetrical layout, yet traditional in its movement construction and fine finishing. The prominent bridges also reveal an unmistakable influence from classic French watchmaking.

I have always loved mother-of-pearl dials, so the opal subdials for the minutes and seconds immediately spoke to me. They are even more colorful than mother-of-pearl and reminded me of the opal shops I have seen in Australia. The green malachite subdial for the hours is equally eye-catching and completes the regulator-style display.

The finishing is top-notch and can be appreciated from both the front and the back. The black-polished balance bridge, the hammer, and several other components are especially striking and mesmerizing under different lighting. The beveling is equally exquisite and looks particularly refined under a loupe.

My only regret was that I did not get to hear the chime during my 20 minutes with the watch. DY later shared a few videos with me, and I was able to hear the beautiful chime while watching the hour hand jump in perfect synchronization with the strike of the gong at the top of the hour.

Here are two videos shared by the brand showcasing the movement in action and the hourly chime.

A Collector Transformed

I’m very happy for my friend DY and his new watch, and he is, of course, over the moon. The School Watch seems to have exceeded all his expectations, even eclipsing everything else in his experience and collection. I asked him why.

For many years, his favorite brands have been A. Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin. He chose his watches carefully, reading reviews and seeking advice from seasoned collectors. He loves complications, especially tourbillons and perpetual calendars, and wears his watches in rotation.

However, he had never really focused on examining his watches through a high-quality loupe until the arrival of the Hazemann & Monnin School Watch. That changed everything. He discovered the magic of fine hand finishing, especially black polishing and anglage. Now, he can hardly put down his loupe.

Like many collectors, he has also started exploring independent watchmaking, where so many interesting creations are taking place. At the same time, he had been a little disappointed by the number of time-only watches that place such a heavy emphasis on finishing. He is a complication guy at heart.

That was why he became intrigued when a collector friend introduced him to the new watch from Hazemann & Monnin. He had never owned a chiming watch or a watch with stone dials. He loved both designs and appreciated the contrast between them: Alex’s more openworked, technical version and Victor’s more artistic interpretation.

Despite being introduced to Alex and Victor very early on, he was initially put on the waitlist because there was no allocation available. He kept the faith and stayed in touch with the two young founders. His genuine appreciation for the design and passion for horology must have made an impression, because he was eventually offered an opportunity.

He was the only client in the Subscription series who committed to the watch without seeing the working prototypes. Needless to say, he has absolutely no regrets, haha.

I have a feeling the honeymoon will last a long time for DY. He is totally ahead of the curve when it comes to independent watch collecting this time.

Here are a few photographs taken by our transformed collector.

A Signature of the Brand

I had the pleasure of meeting Victor and Alex last year during Dubai Watch Week, with a kind introduction from DY. I was impressed by how confident and thoughtful the two young founders were. They seemed to complement each other naturally as I listened to them share stories from the fast lane of independent watchmaking.

At the time, Victor and Alex were still living in France near the Swiss border and commuting about 50 minutes each way to their workshop in Switzerland. They would carpool in the morning and use the drive to discuss the tasks ahead for the day. On the way home, they would catch up on progress, share updates from partners and clients, and tie up any loose ends.

In many ways, they operate as two founders working as one, while still retaining their own individual vision and creativity. Just like the School Watch, their future watches are intended to come in two versions, with each founder bringing his own approach to the dial design. This will become one of the signatures of the brand.

Judging by the fantastic timepiece I had just experienced and by how happy DY is, Victor and Alex seem to be executing their plan very well. I very much look forward to seeing what they create next.

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Starting in 2023, F.P.Journe introduced a new event format called Watch Talks, initially in the U.S. and now offered at many boutiques around the world. Each talk focuses on a particular model or model family, with clients who have an interest in the watch invited to attend. These educational talks are an excellent opportunity to see the watches in person and deepen our understanding of them.

Among all the F.P.Journe watches, the Chronomètre Furtif, Ref. CF, is the one I have been most interested in learning more about. Since its launch last year, I have been curious to understand the watch in greater detail. So when I heard that the Los Angeles Boutique was holding a Watch Talk on the CF in September, I made sure to get an invitation.

Production of the CF is very limited, and it is still quite rare to see one in the wild. It was therefore a real treat to experience the watch on my wrist, examine it under a loupe, and photograph it without being rushed. The talk itself, covering the history, design, and manufacturing of F.P.Journe’s latest creation, was fascinating and engaging.

Here is what I learned from the Watch Talk, along with some of my own research.

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Zorro’s Watch

The origin of the Chronomètre Furtif is unexpectedly charming. In an interview, François-Paul Journe revealed that he was a huge fan of Zorro from the Walt Disney television series, which inspired him to create what he called “Zorro’s watch.”

The connection goes beyond a playful reference. Zorro is built around mystery, disguise, and secrecy, revealing only what he wants others to see. Journe brought that same idea of concealment into the CF.

Unlike most watches, the CF deliberately keeps much of what it has to offer hidden. It is not a themed watch and borrows no obvious visual elements from Zorro. Instead, it captures something of the character’s personality: understated on the surface, with another identity waiting to be discovered.

It is an unconventional starting point for a watch, but one that helps explain many of the design decisions Journe would later make.

Chronomètre Furtif Bleu for Only Watch

Well, Mr. Zorro would have to wait, as Mr. Journe had a more important mission. As a longtime supporter of the Only Watch charity auction, Mr. Journe created a unique piece, the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu, for the 2023 edition. After the auction was postponed to 2024, this stunning blue piece eventually fetched CHF 2 million, far above its original estimate of CHF 200,000 to 400,000.

During the Only Watch 2023 World Tour ahead of the auction, I was fortunate enough to attend the Los Angeles stop at Christie’s in Beverly Hills and see the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu in person.

The watch offered the first glimpse of what would later become the Chronomètre Furtif. It featured a 42 mm tantalum case together with a full tantalum bracelet, a world first according to F.P.Journe. The translucent blue Grand Feu enamel dial featured frosted numerals and a minute track that appeared only when they caught the light, already establishing the discreet character behind the Furtif name.

Inside was the newly developed hand-wound Calibre 1522 in 18K rose gold, which also introduced central seconds for the first time in an F.P.Journe wristwatch. The moonphase and power-reserve displays were placed on the back, leaving the front deceptively simple.

The Chronomètre Furtif Bleu ultimately became the foundation for the production CF. The vivid blue gave way to a more subdued anthracite dial, which brought its own challenges to produce.

The Dial: A Trial by Fire

At first glance, the dial of the Chronomètre Furtif looks almost impossibly simple. In reality, its anthracite-grey Grand Feu enamel dial took roughly 18 months to develop, including about a year spent perfecting the color.

The enamel is prepared by hand, applied in multiple layers to a white-gold base, and fired repeatedly at around 800°C. Each firing carries the risk of bubbles, color variation, cracking, or deformation.

Achieving the final anthracite tone required considerable experimentation. After trying treatments such as opaline lacquer, sandblasting and pumice, the artisans eventually developed a subtle grained texture on the white-gold base by hand under a binocular magnifier. This slightly darkened the dial and, together with the successive enamel layers, produced the color François-Paul Journe wanted.

The next challenge was the finish. Grand Feu enamel normally has a slight “orange-peel” texture, but Journe wanted a perfectly smooth, mirror-polished surface. Les Cadraniers de Genève worked with the polishing specialists at Les Boîtiers de Genève, both wholly owned by F.P.Journe, to develop a proprietary technique.

The numerals, logo and minute track are then laser-frosted, remaining nearly invisible until the light catches them at the right angle.

The process is also unforgiving. Only around 60 percent of the completed dials pass inspection. The rest are rejected and melted down. It is a fitting example of the Chronomètre Furtif itself: a watch that appears simple and understated, while much of its complexity is hidden beneath the surface.

The Case: Tungsten Carbide and Tantalum

For the production Chronomètre Furtif, François-Paul Journe moved away from the all-tantalum exterior of the unique Chronomètre Furtif Bleu and created a bi-material construction combining tungsten carbide and tantalum.

The main case and bracelet are made of tungsten carbide, while the caseback, bumper, bezel ring and crown are tantalum. The combination gives the watch its subtle monochromatic appearance, with sandblasted tungsten carbide contrasted by polished tantalum elements.

The exterior is produced by Les Boîtiers de Genève, F.P.Journe’s specialist case-making operation. Tungsten carbide is extremely hard and difficult to machine, while tantalum is itself challenging to cut and finish. Producing and assembling the two materials therefore required advanced tooling, specialized machining and very precise fitting.

The three-row bracelet is also made from tungsten carbide, with sandblasted surfaces and polished sides, while the folding clasp is titanium with a tantalum element.

Despite the complexity of its construction, the finished watch remains relatively slim at 42 mm in diameter and just 9.5 mm thick.

The Movement: Calibre 1522

The Chronomètre Furtif is powered by Calibre 1522, the manually wound movement first introduced with the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu in 2023. The name follows Journe’s convention: “15” refers to the movement’s diameter of about 15 lignes, while “22” indicates that its development was completed in 2022.

At 33.5 mm, the movement measures approximately 14.9 lignes, confirming the “15” in its name. It is 5.9 mm thick, constructed in 18K rose gold and comprises 197 components.

For the first time in an F.P.Journe wristwatch, the movement uses direct central seconds. Interestingly, the choice was also related to the enamel dial.

Because the dial feet are fitted near the end of the enamelling process, it would be difficult to precisely align an off-center seconds subdial with the movement. Once the dial feet are in place, there is little room to adjust the position of the dial. Using central seconds avoids this alignment problem.

Mechanically, Journe placed the fourth wheel at the center, allowing the seconds hand to be driven directly without the additional gearing and friction normally associated with central seconds.

The movement was also conceived around a strong visual geometry. Journe wanted its three dominant elements, the two mainspring barrels and the balance wheel, which happen to be roughly the same diameter, to form a visual triangle across the movement.

The twin barrels are mounted in parallel to provide stable energy over the 56-hour power reserve, while the balance beats at 3 Hz.

In keeping with the Furtif concept, the power-reserve and moonphase indications are placed on the back, leaving only hours, minutes and central seconds on the dial.

Hands-on Impressions

My first impression: this was Zorro’s sporty watch all right! It would be a perfect companion to his black outfit while riding on horseback, keeping him on time as he chases down the villains.

While the numerals on the dial may disappear at certain angles, the matte rhodium-plated steel hour and minute hands and white steel seconds hand remained quite visible.

Turning my wrist brought the numerals back into view. The dial really is designed for the wearer alone to see.

Despite its relatively slim 42 mm x 9.30 mm dimensions, the watch felt quite heavy on the wrist, thanks to the tungsten carbide case and bracelet with tantalum components. Yet it was comfortable to wear, with the weight evenly distributed around my wrist.

The 18K rose gold movement was beautiful to look at, with bevelled bridges, circular graining, Geneva stripes, polished screw heads, and chamfered screw slots. The twin barrels reminded me of Calibre 1304 inside the Chronomètre Bleu.

For a manually wound movement, the power-reserve indicator on the movement side is quite useful. The moonphase, based on an actual photograph of the moon, is mesmerizing to view. Pulling the crown to position 2 adjusts the moonphase, while position 3 adjusts the time.

The CF belongs to the LineSport collection, and it fits right in. The bracelet follows the same design as the other LineSport models, although the materials are different. The case also features the familiar LineSport bumpers, while the “S” on the dial further identifies the CF as a member of the collection.

Chronomètre Furtif Unique Piece

On September 18, F.P.Journe announced a unique-piece Chronomètre Furtif created to benefit the Paris Brain Institute, a cause Mr. Journe has long supported. All proceeds from the sale of this watch at the charity gala in Geneva would benefit the Institute’s research.

The frosted logo of the Institute appears on the dial in the same manner as the hour numerals. The caseback is engraved “ICM-2026,” with ICM referring to the Institute’s original French name.

At the auction hosted by Christie’s on September 29, the watch hammered for CHF 2.75 million (about US$3.3 million), with no buyer’s premium. It is wonderful to see this unique-piece CF follow the precedent set by the original Chronomètre Furtif Bleu, once again raising funds for important medical research.

The first production Chronomètre Furtif was delivered in 2025. Production remains very limited, mainly due to the tungsten carbide case and bracelet, which are particularly difficult to produce.

The Chronomètre Furtif is listed at CHF 85,000. For more information about Mr. Journe’s vision of “Zorro’s watch,” please visit the official F.P.Journe website. If you are interested in attending a future Watch Talk, contact your nearest F.P.Journe Boutique.

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Among today’s leading watchmakers, Laurent Ferrier stands out for his serious motor racing career before founding his namesake brand, including seven appearances at the 24 Hours of Le Mans and a third-place overall finish in 1979. When asked about the connection between motor racing and watchmaking, the master watchmaker cited “trajectory, balance and harmony,” in addition to time.

Ivan Berets, the subject of this write-up, followed another unusual path from racing to watchmaking. Before training as a watchmaker and eventually creating his own independent brand, Berets was a racing driver.

Berets and I are also connected through a rather unlikely link: we share the same watchmaking teacher. I promise I’m not kidding, and I will get to that story shortly.

Berets has now launched his Series 1, a 40-piece limited edition based on his school watch. I find it a refreshing creation, both in its design and its pricing. Each watch is made and finished in large part by Berets himself, working as a solo watchmaker in Desenzano del Garda, Italy.

I will start from the beginning of the story of this racing driver turned watchmaker.

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12 Years in Motor Racing

Berets was born in Nizhnevartovsk, Russia, and grew up in Moscow and Tyumen. When he was nine, his family moved to Dubai. From that point on, much of his childhood revolved around kart racing. He spent five years traveling around the UAE to compete in the Rotax Max Challenge.

The family later moved to Italy, which allowed Berets to participate in more competitive championships across Europe. To this day, he considers Italy home.

In 2020, Berets decided to move into GT racing after nearly a decade in karting and Formula 4. The opportunity to race GT cars on the Nordschleife in Germany was especially exciting. The Nürburgring circuit is legendary for its difficulty, narrow margins for error, and old-school character.

GT racing was also very different from Formula 4. Instead of 30-minute sprints, the NLS endurance races lasted four hours. The cars were heavier and more powerful, and their durability allowed for a more aggressive style of racing.

Another challenge came from the multiple classes competing at the same time. Berets had to fight for position while constantly navigating slower cars, making the racing especially intense and exciting.

Switzerland Calling

Berets was already familiar with many of the top watch brands, as they were major sponsors in motor racing. But his strong interest in watches did not really begin until around 2020. Like many people, he had plenty of free time during the COVID lockdowns and ended up watching a lot of videos about watches. What began as a casual interest quickly became a hobby, and he even started trying his hand at servicing movements.

A memorable turning point came when Berets’ father showed him his Omega Planet Ocean. Although Berets knew little about watches at the time, he was struck by the craftsmanship of the movement. His curiosity led him to read about the co-axial escapement, which in turn introduced him to George Daniels and his book Watchmaking. That discovery helped set him on the path toward watchmaking.

After winding down his motor racing career in 2022, Berets returned home to take a break and think about his future. As he spent more time on his watch hobby, something clicked. He began looking into watchmaking schools in Europe.

Naturally, Switzerland seemed like the best destination, and he preferred a program taught in English. The K&H Watchmaking Competence Centre (KHWCC) quickly rose to the top of his list.

He applied and was invited to Le Locle for a bench test about a month later. He was over the moon when he realized that this would become his home for the next two years.

A School Watch at KHWCC

Henrik Korpela is the founder, principal, and instructor at KHWCC, a watchmaking school in Le Locle focused on training professional watchmakers while preserving the classical methods of traditional watchmaking.

Its flagship Fullskill Program offers a rigorous 4,000-hour curriculum, including a four-month school watch project. Notable alumni include Bradley Taylor, now an independent watchmaker in Canada, and Charles Birchall, who went to work at Roger Smith’s workshop after graduation.

Berets speaks very highly of Henrik Korpela, admiring him both as a teacher and as a watchmaker. Under Korpela’s guidance, Berets completed his school watch, designing a rectangular movement based on the Peseux 7001. It featured a German silver mainplate and three-quarter plate, while the beveling and finishing were all done by hand using the skills he had learned during the program.

Two years of hard work culminated in an impressive final project. When the balance started ticking for the first time, and he saw the finished movement come to life, Berets could hardly contain his excitement and happiness.

An Independent in His Italian Hometown

After graduating from KHWCC, Berets was offered a full-time position at Holthinrichs Watches, a well-known independent brand based in the Netherlands. However, he could not take his mind off his own project. He had really enjoyed the process of making his school watch movement.

Berets is not someone who would be happy doing the same thing every day. He likes variety in his work, and the process of making a watch largely by oneself lends itself well to that. Before long, he decided that he wanted to continue developing his school watch and become an independent watchmaker.

Berets also missed home and decided to set up his workshop in Desenzano del Garda, Italy. It was not an obvious decision, as Switzerland would have been the more logical choice. But Italy has been home to Berets and his family for many years, and he has developed a strong attachment to life there. He finds it quieter, simpler, and generally more laid-back than Switzerland.

That slower pace can sometimes be frustrating when things need to get done quickly, but Berets believes it can also be well suited to a creative process like watchmaking. In his view, some things simply need time.

Berets’ new workshop combines a mix of old and modern equipment. His setup includes a vintage Aciera F1 milling machine and a Myford Super 7 lathe, which serve as his main workhorses for toolmaking and certain finishing operations.

For producing watch components, he uses more modern equipment from Michael Chung, including the CZ50 watchmaker’s lathe and a newly delivered D5050 CNC milling machine.

Built on a relatively tight budget, it is nevertheless an impressive setup for a young independent watchmaker working on his own.

The Story Behind Series 1

When I asked Berets about the story behind Series 1, he explained that the watch began as a very personal project. It was a way for him to explore his own limits, define his style as a watchmaker, and create something he would genuinely enjoy wearing himself.

“I’ve always been drawn to the more reserved aspects of 20th-century German and British watch design,” Berets told me.

That influence can be seen in the large three-quarter plate and the generous use of negative space on the dial. Rather than filling every available surface, Berets wanted to leave enough open space for the finishing itself to become part of the design.

Another important idea behind Series 1 is the interplay between symmetry and asymmetry. The crown at 12 o’clock and the centrally positioned balance wheel create a strong sense of symmetry, while the dial nameplate and winding wheels are deliberately placed off-center.

“I liked the tension that creates between the two,” he explained.

Berets also approached the dial from the perspective of a watchmaker rather than a traditional dial maker. Instead of relying on lacquer or enamel to create visual interest, he wanted the character of the dial to come from the machining and finishing of the metal itself.

“In that sense, the dial is really an extension of the movement philosophy.”

Wearability was another priority from the very beginning. Berets deliberately kept the rectangular case compact and thin, measuring 30 × 34.5 × 7.3 mm.

“For me, wearability is an essential part of a watch rather than something considered afterwards.”

Taken together, these ideas help explain why Series 1 feels so cohesive. The case proportions, dial layout, movement architecture, and finishing were not developed as separate elements. They all grew out of Berets’ effort to define what his own style of watchmaking should look like.

Substantial In-House Work

Many young independent watchmakers start by building their first watches around existing movements, while making substantial modifications to put their own mark on them. Berets followed a similar approach with Series 1.

A significant number of components are made in his own workshop. On the dial side, Berets produces the dial, hands, chapter ring, nameplate, and screws himself.

On the movement side, he makes the mainplate, bridges, click and click spring, all screws and pins, as well as three wheels for the motion work. Other components, including the gear train, escapement, and balance assembly, are retained from the base Peseux 7001 movement.

Berets also carries out the finishing of all the components he makes. He favors traditional manual techniques whenever possible. The Geneva stripes are ground with abrasives on a manual milling machine, black polishing is done by hand using a tripod, and the anglage is also completed by hand. Some of the screws are heat-blued or purpled, as are the hands, using a heating plate.

For manufacturing, Berets uses a combination of CNC and manual machining. CNC allows him to create more complex parts with greater precision and efficiency, but the components still require extensive post-processing and hand finishing. According to Berets, this handwork accounts for the majority of the time spent making each watch.

The case is the one major component he does not work on himself, as it is produced by outside specialists.

The expected timekeeping variation for Series 1 is a delta of 10 to 15 seconds across six positions, which should translate to roughly -4/+6 to -6/+9 seconds per day. Berets said that he will regulate each watch to be as precise as possible, while acknowledging that every mechanical watch has a small tolerance.

Plenty of Options

Series 1 is offered in two models, Oscuro and Levante, each limited to 20 pieces. Oscuro is an Italian word meaning dark or dim, and can also suggest something mysterious. Levante, on the other hand, means East and is associated with the rising sun. I find them beautiful and fitting names for the two watches.

After deciding between Oscuro and Levante, clients still have plenty of options to choose from. For me, this is one of the most fun and intriguing parts of working with an independent watchmaker directly.

First, there are two choices of finishing for the dial: grattage and frosted. Grattage produces a pattern and visual effect similar to charbonnage, but uses modern rubberized abrasives rather than charcoal to create the finish.

The finishing can also be specified separately for the center and outer sections of the dial. On the Oscuro prototype, the center section has a grattage finish while the outer section is frosted. The Levante prototype uses a frosted finish across the entire dial.

For the movement, Series 1 is available in either raw solid German silver or palladium-plated brass. German silver has a warm, pale golden-champagne color and can gradually develop its own patina over time.

Palladium, by contrast, is a lustrous, silvery-white metal from the platinum group. Palladium-plated brass therefore gives the movement a cooler and brighter appearance, closer in color to white gold, platinum, or rhodium plating.

There are also further choices for movement finishing. The three-quarter plate can be finished with Geneva stripes, grattage, or frosting. The mainplate and balance bridge can each be finished in either grattage or frosting. For the crown wheel, the choices are black polishing or grattage.

On the Oscuro prototype, the exposed portion of the mainplate at the bottom and the center of the crown wheel at the top are finished with grattage, while the remaining surfaces are frosted.

The Levante prototype takes a different approach. Its three-quarter plate is decorated with Geneva stripes, while the mainplate and balance bridge receive a grattage finish. The crown wheel is black polished.

Once all these choices are taken into account, there are 192 possible configurations in total. With only 20 examples of Oscuro and 20 of Levante being made, there is plenty of room for each client to create a Series 1 that feels quite individual.

Off to a Great Start

On September 1, 2025, Berets announced Subscription Series 1 on Instagram with a set of beautiful computer renderings. The post received more than 1,800 likes, and he continued to share the progress of the prototype development with his followers.

Around April 2026, Berets completed the first working prototype of Oscuro just in time for Watches and Wonders. His Instagram reel showing the finished watch received more than 3,800 likes.

Reaching that deadline was an important milestone. Berets had set out to complete the prototype in time to bring it to a collector event in Geneva organized by CollectorSphere during Watches and Wonders in April 2026, and he made it. The curated gathering also featured watchmakers and brands including Emmanuel Bouchet, Garrick, Mermont, and Pattern Recognition.

Presenting his first watch in front of seasoned collectors could have been an intimidating experience for a young watchmaker. But with more than a decade of competitive motor racing behind him, Berets seemed quite comfortable with the pressure and handled the first collector event of his watchmaking career with flying colors.

The contrast with just one year earlier was remarkable. In April 2025, Berets and his KHWCC classmates visited the AHCI exhibition in Geneva, where they had the opportunity to meet and speak with some of the most respected independent watchmakers in the world. At the time, Berets was still working on his school watch, and he remembers the visit as one of the highlights of his school years.

What a difference one year can make!

At this point, Berets has received more than 10 orders and has temporarily stopped taking deposits until some of the first watches are delivered. Series 1 is priced at €16,000 excluding tax. He expects to produce about one watch per month, with the first delivery scheduled for early 2027. He is also exploring a few piece uniques commissioned by clients, as well as a special collaboration.

Like many small independent watchmakers, Berets finds that his clients are often experienced collectors looking for something more distinctive, whether that means a bolder design, more creative watchmaking and customizations, or simply a closer relationship with the person making the watch.

Berets is grateful for the support he has received so far, whether from clients who have ordered a watch or enthusiasts simply taking an interest in his work. He describes the journey of building Berets Watches as incredibly rewarding.

A Special Bond

Now, here is my own story, as promised.

On April 19, 2025, I took a four-hour movement finishing class in the San Francisco Bay Area designed for collectors. It was a rare treat, as movement finishing classes are seldom offered to collectors and enthusiasts, especially compared with movement assembly classes.

The instructors were Henrik Korpela, principal of KHWCC, and Briana Le, a watchmaker and then-trustee of HSNY. After a comprehensive introduction to movement finishing techniques, we also had hands-on experience with straight graining, countersink cutting and polishing, as well as polishing and bluing round screw heads.

After the class, I had a chance to chat with Henrik. He mentioned that a few of his students were considering becoming independent watchmakers. I asked if he could show me some of their work, and he pulled up a few Instagram posts on his phone. I took pictures of the screen so I could look them up later.

If you look at the following photo of Henrik’s phone from that day, you will see Berets’ Series 1.

I did not actually connect with Ivan until early July this year, after seeing photos of his Oscuro prototype. When I mentioned that I had also taken a class from Henrik, Ivan wrote back:

“It’s great to hear you’ve been through the finishing gauntlet with Henrik!

As you can imagine, I have a bit of experience on that front myself after spending two years studying in his class, and it’s exactly the kind of work ethic and attention to detail that I try to embody in my watches.”

I immediately felt a special connection with Ivan through Henrik’s teaching and our shared fascination with watchmaking. I already liked his work, especially the finishing and his plans for the future, and I decided to place an order for a Levante.

I simply wanted to support his journey in a way that I knew would also bring me a lot of joy as a collector.

Here are the specifications I chose for my watch:

Dial side:

• Grattage finish on the center section

• Frosted finish on the outer section

Movement side:

• Grattage finish across the entire three-quarter plate and balance bridge

• Frosted finish on the mainplate

• Black polishing on the crown wheel core

• Raw solid German silver

After placing the order, I sent a note to Henrik and Briana to tell them about it. Both were very happy to hear the news. Henrik shared the following thoughts about Ivan:

“Ivan was one of the best students I have had in the school. I am not even at all surprised he went independent directly from school. I think he will go far in watchmaking, and I am very much looking forward to seeing his future creations.

If he does something, he does it the proper way; he is very correct and also efficient. Yeah, I cannot really say anything bad about Ivan, because he’s just a really good watchmaker.”

What Comes Next

Berets is already working on ideas for Series 2, which he expects to be a significant step forward. He plans to develop a completely in-house movement and incorporate some interesting complications.

For now, however, his main focus remains on Series 1 and delivering the first watches to clients. Series 2 is therefore still likely a couple of years away.

Berets attributes much of what he has achieved in watchmaking so far to the lessons he learned over more than a decade of competitive motor racing. The discipline, focus, and persistence required in racing seem to have carried naturally into his new venture.

The road ahead for Berets will be long and winding, and there will certainly be setbacks and disappointments along the way. But our racing driver turned watchmaker has a genuine passion for horology, along with the determination and endurance developed through years of competition.

He also has Henrik, a wonderful teacher he can continue to turn to for advice, Laurent Ferrier as an inspiring role model, and enthusiastic supporters like you and me.

For those interested in following the work of this promising young watchmaker in Italy, Berets shares regular updates on Instagram and on his website.

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Early that day, the GPHG announced that the Otsuka Lotec No. 8 had been nominated as a finalist for the “Petite Aiguille” Watch Prize through voting by the entire Academy. In 2024, the Otsuka Lotec No. 6 won the GPHG Challenge Watch Prize. In 2025, the Otsuka Lotec No. 5 Kai was nominated but did not win. The nomination of the No. 8 therefore marked the third consecutive year that one of Jiro-san’s watches had reached the GPHG finals, an incredible achievement for Jiro-san and a strong recognition of his work.

A bit later, on September 1, many watch collectors and enthusiasts were stunned by the final result of an auction on Loupe This, a leading online auction platform co-founded by Eric Ku. Three determined bidders battled it out until the price climbed far beyond expectations. You may have already guessed the watch: it was an Otsuka Lotec No. 8, appearing at auction for the first time.

The final result was $56,100 including fees, an insane price that was roughly eight to nine times the retail price of the Otsuka Lotec No. 8. This is just one data point, and if you ask me, such a result is unlikely to become the norm. Still, it clearly demonstrates the enormous demand for Jiro-san’s inventive timepieces.

The GPHG nomination and the auction result will certainly bring even more attention to this intriguing Japanese independent brand. I hope this write-up on the Otsuka Lotec No. 8 sheds light on the reasons behind its remarkable popularity.

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The Irresistible Appeal

Jiro Katayama, a car designer turned watchmaker, approaches watchmaking first and foremost as a designer and artist. The inspiration behind Otsuka Lotec comes from his observations of, and experiences with, physical objects created by engineers and designers.

In his own words, “As a human being, I seem to be more drawn to the nostalgic charm of somewhat antiquated objects… rather than cutting-edge high-end objects.”

“I get various design hints from touching, looking at, and interacting with various objects.”

“Above all, I design watches that I would like to wear and own.”

And the “Lotec” in the brand name stands for “low-tech,” reflecting a contrarian attitude toward a fast-moving modern world increasingly filled with sophisticated high-tech gadgets.

At this point, the irresistible appeal of Jiro-san’s creations becomes almost self-explanatory. After all, many lovers of mechanical watches are drawn to this hobby by much the same sentiment: an appreciation for human craftsmanship and a sense of nostalgia for simpler times.

Unconventional Time Display

Experimenting with unconventional ways of displaying time has long been an important part of independent watchmaking. Examples include F.P. Journe’s Vagabondage trilogy, Andreas Strehler’s Time Shadow, and the M.A.D.3, created in collaboration with Vincent Calabrese, to name just a few.

Looking across the creations of Jiro Katayama, each watch features a different form of unconventional time display. Jiro-san adopts familiar ideas such as jumping hours and gives them his own interpretation. He has even invented new concepts, such as rewinding minutes. It is fascinating to see how differently he approaches something as basic as telling the time.

For the hours, Jiro-san has used jumping hours, retrograde hours, and satellite hours, also known as wandering hours. Judging by how often it appears, jumping hours may be his favorite, as the complication has appeared in four of his watches. The usual approach is to use an aperture to display hour numerals printed on a rotating disk. On the No. 8, however, the implementation is rather novel, which I will get into shortly.

For the minutes, Jiro-san has experimented with retrograde minutes, minute disks, and rewinding minutes. Based on my limited knowledge, the rewinding-minutes display that appears in the No. 9 seems to be an invention by Jiro-san.

With this system, the minute scale itself acts as the retrograde element. Instead of a fixed scale and a moving pointer, the disk rotates to indicate the minutes, then jumps back to its starting position at the end of each 60-minute cycle. Hopefully, we will see him use this concept again in a lower-priced model in the future.

Seconds are usually achieved with a rotating disk, with or without numerals. It mainly serves as an indication that the watch is running.

To me, Jiro-san’s handless approach to displaying time has become one of his hallmarks, and he has established himself as a master of unconventional time display.

A Mini-Review of Otsuka Lotec No. 8

Among these different approaches, the Otsuka Lotec No. 8 may be one of his most inventive combinations yet. From the moment it was unveiled, the No. 8 received a strong positive response from watch enthusiasts and the media alike. The watch unmistakably carries Otsuka Lotec’s design codes and could hardly be mistaken for anything else.

The No. 8 combines jumping hours, retrograde minutes, and a rotating seconds disk, with inspiration drawn from the control consoles of analog audio equipment. The hour is indicated by a selector on a control panel, marked with a red tip. At exactly the top of each hour, the selector jumps to the next hour.

The minutes are displayed across two layers of retrograde minute scales. The upper section is marked in 10-minute increments, while the lower section uses 5-minute increments. The rotating minute indicator, also marked with a red tip, travels between two layers of retrograde scales.

The dual-layer design improves legibility while also providing a visual counterbalance to the hour selector. On the wrist, the layered construction gives the dial a strong sense of depth.

The seconds disk is positioned at the top center of the dial and has no numerical markers. By my estimate, the disk is marked with 120 long and short lines, meaning that the disk makes one full revolution every two minutes. Each line therefore passes a fixed point once per second. The disk is intended primarily as a running indicator rather than for precise reading of the seconds.

It is fun to pull out the crown and advance the minute indicator. It moves all the way to 60 before snapping back to 0, with the motion slightly damped by a connected flywheel. At the same moment, the hour selector advances by one hour, as if operated by magical hand. Like a kid, I can keep turning the crown just to watch the two red-tipped indicators move and jump, while listening to the mechanical sounds from inside the watch.

The Otsuka Lotec No. 8 uses the MIYOTA 90S5 as its base movement, which MIYOTA classifies as a “Premium Automatic.” Jiro-san designed a 62-component display module on top of the base movement to create the watch’s unconventional time display.

The time-display module incorporates three ball bearings, including an ultra-small 1.5 mm ball bearing manufactured by MinebeaMitsumi, currently the smallest in the world, as well as two additional 2.5 mm ball bearings. The smallest bearing is visible on the dial near the numeral 3.

The sapphire crystal over the dial, treated with an anti-reflective coating, is actually square and measures 31 x 31 mm. The case remains relatively slim at 10.8 mm thick, while the lug-to-lug distance is 47.8 mm. The case has a straight-grained finish, while the caseback is solid.

Earlier models, including the No. 5 Kai, No. 6, and No. 7.5, came with calfskin straps, which feel rather stiff to me. With the No. 8, Otsuka Lotec pairs the watch with a rubber strap for the first time. I find it much more comfortable on the wrist thanks to the flexibility of the rubber.

The Otsuka Lotec No. 8 is priced at JPY 990,000 excluding tax, which converts to about $6,330 at the exchange rate at the time of writing.

At this point, Otsuka Lotec watches remain available only in the Japanese domestic market. To me, Jiro-san’s presence at Geneva Watch Days and his growing engagement with international collectors suggest that a broader international presence may eventually become possible.

Future Model Wishlist

Given Jiro-san’s fascination with unconventional displays and mechanical objects, I cannot resist offering a small wishlist for future models.

The first is a No. 9 Lite, without the tourbillon and hour-striking complications. It would retain the jumping hours and rewinding minutes, which I find to be a particularly cool combination. A more accessible price will become possible.

Another idea would be to combine rewinding hours with rewinding minutes, using two rotating retrograde disks that progress through their respective scales and then snap back to their starting positions.

A retrograde date would also be high on my wishlist, adding a genuinely useful calendar indication while fitting naturally with Jiro-san’s fascination with retrograde displays.

Lastly, I will be rooting for Jiro-san’s Otsuka Lotec No. 8 to win this year’s GPHG “Petite Aiguille” Watch Prize. I think our master of unconventional time display would be a very worthy winner.

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Quite a few years ago, I used the contact form on the Atelier Akrivia website to inquire about the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain, or RRCC. Annabelle, Rexhep’s partner in life and business, kindly replied and put me on the interest list.

I would “bug” her every few months for an update. Then one day, she told me that it had become very difficult to get an RRCC, but there were a few earlier Akrivia models readily available if I was interested. These were tourbillon watches that I knew very little about at the time, so I thanked her but said I would still prefer to wait for the RRCC.

That RRCC never came. But recently, I received perhaps the next best thing a watch lover could ask for.

A 185-page guide filled with beautifully printed photographs, Rexhep Rexhepi 2012–2024, published by A Collected Man (ACM). It came as a gift from a contact at ACM, shipped from London to California. I could hardly put it down and finished reading it over just one weekend.

It was the first time I really had the chance to learn about Rexhep’s early creations, Akrivia AK-01 through AK-06. These are exquisite timepieces with high complications, and they already display many of Rexhep’s strong design codes: symmetry on both the dial and movement sides, distinctive hand shapes, and well-balanced proportions. The movement finishing is meticulously executed, while the dials showcase a wide range of elaborate decorative techniques.

To my great surprise, and as candidly described in the ACM book, these early works by Rexhep were not immediately appreciated. In some ways, he was like an artist whose vision and work were ahead of their time. It was a difficult period for a young watchmaker who had left a larger firm, established his own workshop, and poured his heart into creating these watches.

The turnaround began with the AK-06, and Rexhep’s status as one of the leading independent watchmakers was firmly established when the RRCC won the prize in the Men’s Watch category at the 2018 GPHG. The rest, as they say, is history.

Today, Rexhep’s early timepieces, produced in very small numbers, are highly sought after. The few examples that have appeared at auction have continued to set new highs.

In this write-up, I will share what I learned from the excellent ACM guide, together with my own research into past media coverage, GPHG records, and auction results. We will look at each of the six models in the early Akrivia collection, accompanied by some of the most stunning photographs I could find.

Passing on the opportunity to acquire one of Rexhep’s early timepieces will probably remain the biggest regret of my watch-collecting journey. It came down to my lack of knowledge and, perhaps, a lack of foresight. Still, there is something bittersweet, and even a little amusing, about knowing that I was once offered the opportunity.

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Delayed Recognition

As described in a 2015 Hodinkee article by Nicholas Manousos, Kari Voutilainen was once asked to name young watchmakers doing interesting things. Kari’s reply was simple: “Rexhep Rexhepi.”

Apparently, the wider watch world was far behind the curve. Case in point: two of Rexhep’s early watches were not even nominated to advance to the top six in their respective GPHG categories. A third watch was nominated, but did not win. I will show the details in the illustration below.

In the ACM book’s chapter on the AK-06, Rexhep’s situation at the time is described rather starkly: “He had to approach his next watch differently because, as far as Rexhep was concerned, this was the one that would determine his future in watchmaking. It would either salvage his career or put an end to it.”

Rexhep had listened to feedback and made changes to the case and proportions while retaining his aesthetic language. The AK-06 was also a simpler, time-only watch without a tourbillon.

The watch media took notice, as we can see from the coverage chart below. Collectors certainly noticed as well, and the response was much more positive.

The ACM book later quotes Rexhep reflecting on the AK-06: “Then we released it, and I knew straight away that my life was going to change.”

Recognition from the GPHG would be delayed by one more year. The AK-06 was not nominated in 2017, but Rexhep won the Men’s Watch category with the RRCC in 2018.

It seems likely that these two time-only watches, the AK-06 and RRCC, helped the watch world better understand and appreciate Rexhep’s craftsmanship and artistic vision. At the end of the day, very few of us could see it as clearly as Kari did, right?

The first watch from the early Akrivia collection would not appear at auction until August 2023. From there, prices would continue to climb dramatically, as we will see below.

It was certainly a delayed recognition. The difficulties Rexhep faced as a young independent watchmaker seem only to have made him more determined. But when the recognition finally came, it came in a very big way.

AK-01 Tourbillon Chronographe Monopoussoir (2013)

Rexhep Rexhepi established his own workshop in 2012 after building up his formidable watchmaking skills at BNB Concept and F.P.Journe. The following year, at the AHCI section of BaselWorld 2013, Rexhep unveiled his first watch, the Akrivia AK-01 Tourbillon Chronographe Monopoussoir.

As the name indicates, it combines a monopusher chronograph with a tourbillon, two of the complications Rexhep loved most. What an incredible first watch for a new brand! Rexhep did not start entirely from scratch, however, as he turned to a movement he was already familiar with as the base.

During his time at BNB Concept, Rexhep led a 10-person complications workshop. BNB Concept was later sold to MHC, along with its calibers, and the AK-01 was based on an ébauche from MHC.

According to the ACM book, Rexhep still had to do considerable work to improve the ébauche and make it function properly. He also designed a new cage for the flying tourbillon.

Rexhep designed the dial, hands, and case, laying the foundation for the distinctive aesthetic codes that would appear in his later watches. The symmetry of the dial would become a hallmark of his creations. One particularly interesting detail is the bell-shaped opening at 12 o’clock, which showcases the chronograph’s column wheel.

Another hallmark of Rexhep’s watches is the exquisite, uncompromising finishing. We can certainly see that level of finishing here, from both the dial side and the movement side.

The AK-01 was priced at CHF 160K in steel and CHF 200K in rose gold. According to the ACM book, only about 13 to 14 examples were ever made.

AK-02 Tourbillon Heure Minute (2015)

Rexhep’s second creation, the AK-02, was a simplified and refined version of the AK-01, with the chronograph removed. From the back, the movement looks almost the same as that of the first watch, and the case also remains largely unchanged.

The bigger change is on the dial side, where Rexhep had more opportunity to experiment with different decorative techniques. He offered clients two options, both rooted in traditional watchmaking. The first was a matte-polished finish, while the second was hand-hammered. Both were highly labor-intensive and required considerable skill. Clients could also choose a specific color for the dial.

The movement is made of either German silver or brass decorated with Geneva stripes, anglage, and black polishing. The AK-02 Tourbillon was priced at $120K in a stainless steel case.

AK-03 Tourbillon Chiming Jump Hour (2015)

Rexhep began working on an in-house movement from the ground up as early as 2013, and unveiled the AK-03 with this new movement in 2015. It was another highly complicated watch, combining a jumping hour display and sonnerie au passage with a tourbillon. The AK-03 fully demonstrated Rexhep’s watchmaking talent.

The beautifully finished and perfectly symmetrical movement further emphasized the design DNA that would make Rexhep’s watches stand out. The finishing includes Geneva stripes, anglage, and 56 interior angles.

The dial offers some fascinating details. First, the same opening at 12 o’clock seen on the AK-01 returns here, but instead of showcasing the chronograph’s column wheel, it reveals the gong for the chiming function.

Directly below the gong is the circular aperture for the jumping hour. Its shape aligns perfectly with the circle on the minute hand.

Further down is the larger aperture for the tourbillon, completing the strong vertical focus running from top to bottom along the center of the dial. The symmetrical layout feels both distinctive and beautifully balanced.

The ACM book quotes Rexhep summarizing this approach: “This has always been my visual code - to highlight the component that characterized the complication in the watch.”

With its first in-house movement, the AK-03 represented a major milestone for Rexhep. The atelier would soon begin to expand, with the first watchmaker joining in 2016, followed by an engineer and Rexhep’s brother, Xhevdet.

Offered with either a grey dial or a brushed gold dial, the AK-03 was priced at CHF 180K.

AK-04 Tourbillon Régulateur (2015)

The AK-04 can be seen as a companion piece to the AK-03, using the same in-house movement but without the chiming function. It is a regulator, meaning the hour, minute, and seconds displays are placed on separate axes so the hands do not overlap.

The symmetry of the dial works not only horizontally, but vertically as well, with the hour sub-dial at 12 o’clock balanced by the tourbillon below. In addition to the matte-polished and hand-hammered dial finishes, Rexhep also offered a third option in blued steel.

Offered only in a stainless steel case, the AK-04 Tourbillon Régulateur was priced at CHF 125K.

AK-05 Tourbillon Barrette-Miroir (2016)

Rexhep’s original idea was to create a watch similar to the AK-02, but powered by his own in-house movement. Feedback from clients and retail partners helped shape the AK-05 into its final form. It was also the first Rexhep watch to feature Arabic numerals on the dial. In a sense, it was his most conventional design up to that point in 2016.

Barrette-Miroir means “mirror-polished bridge” in French, referring to the prominent arched tourbillon bridge, which is finished to an exceptionally high level of mirror polish. The movement is a further simplification of those used in the AK-03 and AK-04, with 167 components.

The dial combines hand-hammered and brushed finishes. The AK-05 was priced at CHF 165K.

AK-06 (2017)

The AK-06 represented a fairly major change from the previous Akrivia models, or a “revival,” in Rexhep’s own words. First, there was no longer a tourbillon. The case was also much slimmer, measuring 41.5 mm by 9.9 mm. The openworked dial was avant-garde even by today’s standards, while the price came down to a relatively more accessible CHF 79K in steel.

As discussed earlier, the AK-06 proved to be a turning point, with collectors and the media responding enthusiastically to the new watch.

While the tourbillon was gone, Rexhep added two complications that collectors love: a zero-second reset mechanism and a power reserve indicator. When the crown is pulled out, the seconds hand jumps instantly back to zero. This rare feature would continue to appear in future models.

With the new power reserve indicator positioned at 12 o’clock, the total power reserve was increased to 100 hours. It is uncommon to see the mechanism for a power reserve displayed so prominently on a watch.

The most intriguing fact I learned from the ACM book is that the calibers powering the AK-06 and the RRCC are basically the same. The main difference is that the RRCC does not have the power reserve indicator, in addition to some bridge design changes.

In this sense, the AK-06 paved the way for the young brand’s phenomenal success from that point onward. It is a foundational piece in the history of Atelier Akrivia.

The Long Road to Success

Earlier this year, Rexhep released the Chronograph Flyback (RRCHF) to rave reviews. If there were a waitlist, it would probably stretch to 100 years or more. I would bet that this watch will easily win this year’s GPHG Chronograph Category. It is striking to compare the reception of the RRCHF with that of the very first AK-01 monopusher chronograph tourbillon launched in 2013.

Yet the early Akrivia models, made by Rexhep’s own hands through long hours and enormous effort, laid the foundation for his eventual success. The symmetrical design language, impeccable hand finishing, development of different complications, and experimentation with dial decoration all paved the way for today’s RRCHF and future models.

Learning more about the AK-01 through AK-06 convinced me that Rexhep was ahead of his time. Features that are popular today, such as jumping hours and hand-hammered dial decoration, had already been explored by Rexhep many years ago. His symmetrical approach to both dial and movement design can also be seen in creations from newer independents, including the Annual Calendar by Berneron and the RD002 by Mineroci.

I did not have the chance to meet Rexhep and Annabelle until the summer of 2024. Reading the ACM book and researching the early Akrivia collection allowed me to go back in time and better understand their remarkable journey. Connecting the dots made me appreciate Rexhep’s work even more.

There will be no more new watches under the Akrivia name, as future creations will only carry Rexhep’s own name. Looking back now, the Akrivia collection feels like an earlier chapter, and surely a memorable one for Rexhep and Annabelle. From here, the possibilities seem almost limitless.

I cannot wait to see the next chapter for Rexhep and his remarkable team.

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Buying one watch bearing two of the most coveted names in the independent watchmaking world was too tempting to resist. I contacted an authorized dealer and put my name on the list for the blue-dial steel version. Not long afterward, I was told that a slot had been secured and it was time to place the deposit.

Regrettably, I got cold feet and did not proceed. The $60K price was a little too high for me at the time. Today, the retail price of the same watch is around $72K, with a multi-year wait.

Well, there is no medicine for regret. Still, the appeal of a watch carrying the DNA of two collaborators has stayed with me. This two-birds-with-one-stone approach may even save some money, especially for collectors seeking greater diversity in their collections.

Browsing through the watches competing in the 2026 GPHG felt like reviewing the most notable releases from the past 12 months or so. Three collaborative pieces stood out to me, and I do not own a watch from any of the six brands involved. Let’s dive in and see whether you agree.

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MING x J.N. Shapiro 37.06 Lightning

Both MING and J.N. Shapiro are founding members of the Alternative Horological Alliance, or AHA, and previously collaborated on a stunning tantalum bracelet. It therefore always seemed like only a matter of time before these two leading independent brands outside Europe created a watch together. That day came in early June 2026, delivering a delightful surprise for fans of both brands.

Josh Shapiro, founder of the brand bearing his name, is well known for his meticulously hand-engine-turned dials. It was therefore no surprise that he would contribute the dial to this collaboration. What was unexpected, however, was the guilloché pattern. Rather than using one of the classic patterns or his famous Infinity Weave, Shapiro chose a pattern called “Lightning guilloché,” which he used here for the first time on a watch.

After the dials are produced in Josh’s workshop in Torrance, California, they are shipped to MING’s atelier in Kuala Lumpur. There, founder Ming Thein heat-colors each dial using a handheld butane torch. The resulting colors shift from vibrant orange-yellow to rich purple and deep blue.

Some early owners, including my friend Rick, were fortunate to receive their watches shortly after the official unveiling. I had the opportunity to see his watch and take several macro photographs of the dial. It was unlike anything I had seen before, with dramatic color shifts and a striking three-dimensional appearance.

This watch goes beyond the usual collaboration between two brands. The founders themselves work together to create the dial through hand engine-turning and hand-applied heat coloring. Each piece is both a symbol of their friendship and an example of the magic of independent watchmaking.

Rick and two other friends acquired their Lightning watches through Collective Horology, a retail partner of both MING and J.N. Shapiro. The price is CHF 6,250 or USD 8,800. There may be a wait for this piece, but for fans of both brands, it is a fantastic watch worth waiting for. Lightning may not strike twice, so try to secure one if it truly speaks to you.

UR-FREAK, by URWERK and Ulysse Nardin

It is an unexpected collaboration, to say the least. Both the Ulysse Nardin Freak collection and URWERK are known for their unconventional, avant-garde approaches to displaying time. The Freak uses the entire gear train as a carousel to indicate the time, while URWERK pioneered the satellite time display. The Ulysse Nardin team is based in Le Locle, while URWERK works from its atelier in Geneva.

Yet their collaborative timepiece, smartly named UR-FREAK, makes it seem as though the two teams had been working together under one roof. Please see watches from the two brands side by side below, followed by the UR-FREAK.

UR-FREAK is powered by a jointly developed movement called UN-241, which evolved from the UN-240. The case measures 44 mm, while both time-setting and winding are handled through the bezels, a feature inherited from the Freak. The time is displayed through URWERK’s signature satellite system. The beating balance remains visible from the front, another clear nod to the Freak’s design.

It is hard not to marvel at how seamlessly the design combines the strengths and character of both brands. UR-FREAK is limited to 100 pieces and priced at $122,200. Below are several wrist shots I found on Instagram. It would be a very cool watch to own and a conversation starter at any watch meetup.

Schwarz Etienne 1902 SYNERGY by Peter Speake

When the Schwarz Etienne name comes up, many watch enthusiasts may first think of its ROMA SYNERGY collaboration with Kari Voutilainen, or MING’s use of Schwarz Etienne movements in certain models. Nevertheless, Schwarz Etienne has been an independently owned manufacture for more than 100 years, producing in-house movements that include flying tourbillons.

Last year, Schwarz Etienne launched a new collection named 1902, honoring the year the brand was founded in La Chaux-de-Fonds, in the canton of Neuchâtel. The collection includes time-only models, GMT travel watches, and watches with a power reserve indicator under the name “1902 Réserve de Marche.”

Peter Speake is a veteran independent watchmaker born in Essex, England. Peter and his then-wife, Daniela Marin, founded Speake-Marin in 2002. His best-known watches from that period include the Piccadilly, Serpent Calendar, and Thalassa. Peter left the brand in 2017 and founded The Naked Watchmaker, a digital platform featuring detailed deconstructions of pocket and wristwatches, as well as lectures. Here is his HSNY lecture about the project. He left The Naked Watchmaker in 2022.

Peter founded his new brand, PS Horology, shortly afterwards in 2022, creating Swiss timepieces inspired by cultures, history, and artistry from around the world. One important model is the Tsuba Blue, which combines classically English-style indexes and hands with the modern technique of printing on sapphire. This gives the dial details a greater sense of visual depth.

Following the success of the ROMA SYNERGY by Kari Voutilainen, Schwarz Etienne unveiled the 1902 SYNERGY by Peter Speake in April 2026.

The collaboration began with the Schwarz Etienne 1902 Réserve de Marche, with Peter taking the lead on the dial design. He had launched the Tsuba Blue one year earlier, featuring a sapphire dial with a thin layer of lacquer beneath it. The hour and minute markers were printed on this layer. The same technique was used for the 1902 SYNERGY, creating the impression that the hour numerals and indexes are floating above the dial.

Another contribution from Peter is the serpent hand used for the power reserve indicator. He previously used a similar hand to indicate the date on watches such as the Serpent Calendar. The vibrant blue hands, numerals, minute track, and other details against the white dial, combined with touches of orange, give the watch a dramatically different look and feel from typical Schwarz Etienne timepieces.

That said, the dial of the 1902 SYNERGY still retains several key Schwarz Etienne design elements. These include the style of the hour, minute, and seconds hands, the shape of the hour numerals and markers, and the railroad minute track. The result is a cohesive integration of the aesthetics of a historic Swiss maison and a seasoned English independent watchmaker.

Inside the watch is Schwarz Etienne’s in-house, manually wound caliber MSE 311.00, featuring beautifully finished finger bridges. The movement beats at 3 Hz and offers an impressive 120-hour power reserve. “SYNERGY BY PETER SPEAKE” is prominently engraved on one of the ratchet wheels.

For collectors who missed the period when Peter Speake was at the helm of Speake-Marin, this collaboration may be an interesting opportunity. The 1902 SYNERGY by Peter Speake, limited to 88 pieces, is priced at CHF 25,500, excluding VAT.

Looking at these three watches, I am reminded again why the LM101 collaboration appealed to me so strongly in 2021. The best collaborations are not merely watches carrying two names. By combining their ideas, skills, and design languages, the collaborators can create something even more intriguing than either might have achieved alone.

I may still regret letting the LM101 go, but perhaps one of these three watches could offer a second chance. Which one would you choose, and are there other recent collaborations that deserve to be on this list?

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Fortunately, there are exceptions. One place to look is the annual GPHG “Petite Aiguille” competition, a category for watches priced between CHF 4,500 and CHF 10,000. Among this year’s 26 contenders, the MING x J.N. Shapiro 37.06 Lightening, the Otsuka Lotec No. 8, and the collaboration between Massena LAB and Raúl Pagès all punch well above their weight.

What caught my eye, however, was an open-dial watch with an unusual 20-degree inclined balance wheel positioned front and center. The gear train is visible, especially the wheels rotating busily alongside the beating screwed balance and hairspring. The seconds disc also turns continuously, adding to the lively visual performance. See the video.

This is the ZLTD Series 2, the product of a shared passion between co-founder Z.L. Toh (Kenny) of Singapore and co-founder/watchmaker Raf Dzwonek of Canada. The brand name comes from their initials, which are subtly engraved at the top of the engine-turned hour and minute dial.

Starting over the weekend of August 1 and 2, the first few pieces of Series 2 will be shipped to their owners. All 20 watches in the first edition are expected to be delivered by the end of August. This marks a significant milestone in the founders’ journey together.

For this write-up, I will first present the watch, followed by the stories of the founders behind this intriguing piece, their journey, their engagement with fans, and their plans for the future.

Indeed, their creations embody many of the appealing attributes mentioned at the beginning that are often associated with watches at much higher price points.

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The Watch

For comparison, let us first look at Greubel Forsey, the leading independent brand that pioneered the inclined balance wheel.

Greubel Forsey Balancier S

The Balancier collection from Greubel Forsey is dedicated to timepieces regulated exclusively by one or two balance wheels, without tourbillons or additional complications. The goal is to achieve maximum precision through geometry, energy management, and the stability of the regulating organ.

Short of using a tourbillon, the next best approach is a tilted balance wheel, which helps average out positional errors caused by gravity. The Balancier S is a good example. Limited to 75 pieces, it was produced from 2020 to 2022 and had a list price of CHF 195,000. Its balance wheel is inclined at 30 degrees as shown below.

In Greubel Forsey’s own description, “Its 30˚angle provides this timepiece with excellent chronometric performance.” In addition, the tilted balance wheel gives the watch a distinct visual identity and creates a three-dimensional display for the wearer to admire.

Besides Greubel Forsey, Korean independent watchmaker Eugène Kim has also released the Vertixphere X1, featuring a vertically mounted balance wheel. The watch is priced at $35,000.

ZLTD Series 2

The defining feature of the ZLTD Series 2 is its 20-degree inclined escapement assembly, positioned in the lower central area of the dial. The screwed balance wheel, escape wheel, and pallet fork operate on a tilted plane, while the rest of the gear train remains on the base plane.

According to the founders, it took 12 months to develop the inclined escapement assembly and complete a working prototype. Remarkably, the movement retains the same thickness despite the inclined balance. What an impressive feat!

The dial is almost entirely open, apart from the hour and minute sub-dial. Many of the rapidly moving components are fully exposed for easy viewing, including the balance wheel, hairspring, escape wheel, fourth wheel, and seconds disc. The result is a mesmerizing mechanical display.

On the right side, the entire keyless works are exposed. This makes winding the watch and setting the time an enjoyable moment to observe the gears in motion.

The hour and minute sub-dial is another highlight, carrying over the aesthetic DNA of the earlier models. It features mirror-polished hour markers and the exquisite arrow-shaped hands that have become a signature of the brand. The dial is available with either hand-executed rose-engine guilloché or anodized titanium in Aubergine or Blue, both with a finely brushed finish.

To the left of the sub-dial is a rotating seconds disc engraved with the numerals 15, 30, 45, and 60. A fixed arrow indicator is heat-tempered to a purple hue. Since the movement does not hack, the disc rotates continuously, providing an appealing visual cue.

The movement is beautifully finished on both the front and back, combining precision machining with hand-executed refinement. The chamfers and screws are mirror-polished, while the interior angles are shaped and finished by hand. The ratchet wheels are decorated entirely in-house with a combination of polished grooves and a sunray finish. They are paired with a fully mirror-polished winding click.

The stainless steel case measures 40 mm in diameter and 10.5 mm in thickness, with a lug-to-lug length of 45.5 mm. The hand-crafted straps are custom-made by Atelier Kai, one of Singapore’s leading artisanal strap makers.

The first batch of the Series 2 consists of 20 pieces, priced at USD 7,500 before taxes. The first few pieces will be shipped in early August, with the remaining watches scheduled for delivery by the end of August 2026.

There is also a fascinating piece unique of the Series 2, created by Raf for an award competition and featuring a central seconds hand.

Now, let’s meet the creators behind this remarkable watch.

Raf Dzwonek, Watchmaker

Raf Dzwonek, a Canadian, became fascinated with watches at a very young age after receiving a box of old watches that had belonged to his grandfather. He took many of them apart and even managed to put one back together.

For his formal education, Raf studied electrical engineering and began his career in the field of oil and gas after graduation. At the same time, he remained deeply interested in watches and collected them for many years.

His passion for horology eventually became strong enough that he decided to change professions and start his own company, Arcus Watches. He taught himself watchmaking using every resource he could find, aided by the mechanical talent he had already demonstrated as a child.

At Arcus, Raf pursued several different areas of work. First, drawing on his electrical engineering background, he built his own CNC machine. This allowed him to create a machine with the exact functions he needed at a relatively affordable cost.

Raf also carried out extensive movement modification work, which became one of his main passions. He developed considerable expertise in this area and began offering it as a service. Eventually, he also designed and produced watches under the Arcus brand.

Remarkably, a good friend of mine purchased an Arcus watch from Raf 3-4 years ago. He described the dial as “fun and a great color” and noted that “Raf designed his own jumping hour function.”

Raf first connected with Kenny as a client and supported his watchmaking efforts. As Kenny’s business grew, it began taking up more and more of Raf’s time.

After working together for more than a year, their shared passion and vision led them to join forces and create a new watch brand as equal partners.

Kenny Toh, Collector Turned Creator

Z.L. Toh, or Kenny, has always loved watches, but he fell deeply into the rabbit hole around 2021. He mainly collects independent brands and has even tried his hand at mirror-polishing components and heat-tempering hands.

In 2024, Kenny took a leap of faith and created his own brand as a passion project. The first small series, limited to 15 pieces, was called Series 1 and released under the Z.L. Toh name. Kenny wanted to experience watchmaking firsthand, so he applied his own skills to mirror-polish the indexes and hands and to heat-temper the hands to blue or purple.

It was during this period that Kenny engaged Raf as a supplier to produce the watch components, including the dial, indexes, and hands.

All 15 pieces of Series 1 were delivered in 2025 to a very positive reception. This success led to follow-up projects and eventually to Kenny’s partnership with Raf.

Joining Force

With Raf joining as co-founder, the brand was renamed ZLTD, based on the initials of both partners. Starting with the 10-piece Special Project No. 1, the watches would carry the ZLTD name. A new chapter had begun, along with a period of accelerated progress.

It is a complementary partnership built on a shared passion, despite the founders living in different countries, more than 8,000 miles and 14 to 15 time zones apart.

As the sole watchmaker, Raf is responsible for every aspect of watchmaking. His work includes manufacturing, polishing, assembly, regulation, and testing at the brand’s workshop in Calgary, Canada. He handles most of the manufacturing himself rather than relying heavily on suppliers, which helps keep costs down.

Kenny collaborates with Raf on the design of the watches and manages nearly everything outside of watchmaking, including public relations, social media, the website, logistics, and partnerships.

The founders share a goal of pushing the boundaries of watchmaking while keeping their creations accessible to the collecting community. In their view, money can buy many imaginable watches today, but their ambition is to create unimaginable timepieces. Series 2 is the first step toward pursuing that ambitious goal.

In-House Production

The RD01 movement powering the Series 2 uses the gear train and balance from the ETA 6498, benefiting from its proven reliability and long-term serviceability. Everything else, including the mainplate, bridges, and keyless works components, was designed, manufactured, and electroplated in-house. Even the gear train is modified to accommodate the 20-degree inclination of the escapement assembly.

All anglage, including the inward angles on both the dial and movement sides, is executed and mirror-polished by hand. Here are some examples before and after the hand finishing.

Outside the movement, all but three key components are also made in-house. The outsourced components are the stainless steel case (with a design by ZLTD), leather strap, and rose-engine guilloché dial.

Overall, the vast majority of the design and manufacturing work is carried out by Raf in the Canadian workshop. Following the successful release of Series 1.5, a second CNC machine was added. The duo has also continued to invest in machinery and tooling.

Accessible Pricing

Series 2 is priced at USD 7,500 excluding taxes, an exceptional value considering its novel inclined balance, open dial design, guilloché dial, hand-finished movement, and premium strap. The price is especially remarkable at a time when many independent watches are reaching unprecedented price levels.

The accessible pricing of ZLTD watches begins with Raf and Kenny’s determination to offer strong value to fellow watch lovers. ZLTD creations are truly made by enthusiasts for enthusiasts.

Another key reason is ZLTD’s ability to manufacture and finish most components in-house, which helps control costs. Leading suppliers, especially those in Switzerland, often charge premium prices, particularly for small orders.

Interestingly, the accessible pricing itself provides evidence of the brand’s extensive in-house production. If ZLTD relied heavily on outside suppliers, their high costs would make it difficult to offer the Series 2 at its current price.

Production Volume

Deliveries in 2025 included 15 pieces of Series 1, 30 pieces of Series 1.5, and one unique piece created for charity, for a total of 46 watches. So far in 2026, 10 pieces of Special Project No. 1 have been delivered, while delivery of the 20-piece Series 2 is ongoing.

Given the level of hand-finishing and attention to detail, annual production is expected to remain between 40 and 60 pieces. The brand plans to continue working in small series to maintain a high standard of quality.

The Brand’s Early Champions

The brand’s vision has resonated strongly with a group of early supporters. One of them is Roman of Fifth Wrist (Instagram: @timesromanau), who purchased both Series 1 and Series 1.5. Roman also interviewed Kenny and Raf on the Fifth Wrist Radio podcast, which I really enjoyed.

These early clients and collectors offered feedback that the brand welcomed and adopted. One example was the decision to replace the matte black powder coating on the movement with rhodium electroplating. It was a valuable suggestion, as the sandblasted, rhodium-plated surface is more dynamic and interacts more beautifully with the light.

As a token of appreciation, the founders also gave these early supporters advance access to purchase new models such as the Series 2.

Here are some photos of the earlier models shared by several of the brand’s early backers.

Future Roadmap

The first edition of Series 2 will ship from Singapore this coming weekend, with all 20 pieces expected to be on owners’ wrists by the end of August. Do not despair if you missed out. The second edition of Series 2 is expected to be announced soon, most likely in the fourth quarter of this year.

The founders are not interested in releasing a new edition with only a different dial color. Version 2 will include several enhancements over the first edition. In addition, a special collaboration edition of Series 2 is currently in development and may also be announced later this year.

Series 3 is also on the horizon, featuring a complication that I am sure fellow watch enthusiasts will love. Very few independent brands currently offer this feature, and one recent example I know of is priced at CHF 180,000. I learned about the project by chance, so I will not reveal anything more. Let us wait for Kenny and Raf to introduce their new creation in the not-too-distant future.

How to Purchase One

The founders’ advice is simple: leave a message through the “Contact Us” form on the ZLTD website. Your name will then be added to the newsletter, which will announce future releases and provide details on how to purchase a watch.

For those who would like to see the watches in person or meet the founders directly, ZLTD will participate in several upcoming watch events. For the remainder of the year, the duo plans to visit Tokyo Watch Week in October and attend IAMWATCH in Singapore in November. Reach out to them if you would like an opportunity to meet.

Final Thoughts

I was quite impressed by the ZLTD Series 2, particularly its novel inclined balance design and high level of hand-finishing. These qualities are especially remarkable at this price point and even among the strong lineup of watches competing at this year’s GPHG. The team at Oracle Time apparently agreed, naming the ZLTD Series 2 one of the top 10 independent watches to know at the GPHG.

An even greater reason for writing this piece was my respect for Kenny and Raf, who are living the dream of many watch enthusiasts. Steve Jobs famously said, “Stay hungry, stay foolish.” To those with more conventional thinking, founding a new watch brand in this day and age may seem crazy or foolish. Yet Kenny and Raf have fully embraced the challenge and excitement of creating those “unimaginable” timepieces, for themselves and for us.

Lastly, best of luck to Kenny and Raf on their first foray into the GPHG’s “Petite Aiguille” category. Alphabetically, the ZLTD Series 2 appears last among the 26 contenders, but in my view, this innovative watch certainly belongs in the category’s top six.

Regardless of the outcome, I am confident that this passionate duo will continue to deliver compelling watches and win over more collectors with their intriguing offerings.

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I actually have a hunch that Japan deserves this title, as its independent watchmaking scene is booming. In the recent LV Watch Prize competition, four of the top 20 semi-finalists were based in Japan. There is also Tokyo Watch Week, which showcases many of the country’s leading and emerging watchmaking talents in a nation that deeply values artisanal craftsmanship.

However, I did not have any data or reports to support my argument. Nor could I find a comprehensive list of Japanese independent watchmakers and brands. Then I thought, why not compile one myself? It could be a useful resource for my readers, and I would certainly learn a great deal during the research.

Without further ado, here is the fruit of my labor. Please leave a comment if I have missed anyone.

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The List

To make this compilation as complete as possible, I have divided it into four categories. I hope they are self-explanatory, as shown below.

The Directory and Brief Comments

Some of these brands and watchmakers have already been covered extensively in the watch press, so I will skip the commentary unless I have something interesting to add. Instead, I will focus my thoughts on the brands and watchmakers that were new to me.

The photos, unless otherwise noted, were taken from the makers' websites or Instagram accounts.

Naoya Hida & Co.

• Website: https://naoyahidawatch.com/?lang=en

• IG: https://www.instagram.com/naoya_hida_co.official/

• Annual production: 110 to 130

• How to buy: Application including an essay

• References

  • 2026 Releases

  • A Memorable Visit

  • “Floating Feathers”

Earlier this year, Naoya Hida & Co. launched “Floating Feathers”, a special 10-piece collaboration with Mark Cho of The Armoury. It received 250 applications. The odds of securing one were about as good as getting accepted to Harvard.

I know a few owners of Naoya Hida & Co. watches, and they absolutely enjoy wearing them. Their timeless design, artisanal dial craftsmanship, and exceptional wearing comfort are what keep these owners holding on to their pieces. As a result, very few examples appear on the pre-owned market.

The phenomenal success of Naoya Hida & Co., now more than eight years since its founding, offers an intriguing lesson for aspiring young brands. You do not have to, and cannot, please everyone. However, understanding your target audience and making watches that truly resonate with them can make all the difference.

Otsuka Lotec

• Website: https://otsuka-lotec.com/

• IG: https://www.instagram.com/jiro.katayama/

• Annual production: unknown

• How to buy: raffle

• References

  • Introduction

  • No 5 Kai - Wandering Hours

Minase

• Website: https://minasewatches.com/

• IG: https://www.instagram.com/minasewatch/

• Annual production: less than 500

• How to buy: website and ADs

• References

  • Minase Watches

  • Handcrafted Yusai Dials

  • Uruga Collection

Takano

• Website: https://takanowatch.jp/en/

• IG: https://www.instagram.com/takanowatchofficial

• Annual production: very small

• How to buy: raffle

• References

  • A Revival

Takano is a historic Japanese watch brand that was revived by renowned independent watchmaker Hajime Asaoka in 2024. Its first release was a pair of watches named the Chateau Nouvel Chronometer. “Chateau,” a reference to Nagoya Castle, was the name used for several Takano watches produced between 1960 and 1962.

The new Takano watches are made by Precision Watch Tokyo, a company Hajime Asaoka founded in 2016. True to the name Chateau Nouvel Chronometer, each watch undergoes rigorous testing at the Besançon Observatory in France and is accompanied by an official certificate. Similar to my beloved Pascal Coyon chronometer, every Takano watch is engraved with a viper, the symbol of the Besançon Observatory.

Earlier this year, I met a friend who owns a black Takano Chateau Nouvel Chronometer. It is a stunning watch, with every detail on the dial meticulously executed. At about $5,400 based on the current exchange rate, it is hard to find anything not to like about this exquisite, true chronometer created by such a talented team.

Kurono Tokyo

• Website: https://kuronotokyo.com/

• IG: https://www.instagram.com/kuronotokyo/

• Annual production: >1000

• How to buy: through the website and boutiques

• References

  • An Introduction

  • Diver and Dress Two in One

Tertium Quid

• Website: https://tertiumquidwatch.com/

• IG: https://www.instagram.com/tertiumquidwatch/

• Annual production: 8 pieces for first batch

• How to buy: Application

• References

  • Model R: an Alarm

Nouvelle Chronométrie

• Website: https://nouvelle-chronometrie.com/

• IG: https://www.instagram.com/nouvellechronometrie/

• Annual production: very small number

• How to buy: contact through website

• References

  • Review: Montre Ordinaire

  • Hands on: Montre Ordinaire

Hajime Asaoka

• Website: http://www.hajimeasaoka.com/index_english.html

• IG: https://www.instagram.com/hajimeasaoka_official/

• Annual production: very few

• How to buy: introduction by existing clients

• References

  • Why I Bought It

  • Tsunami Edition Blanche

Masahiro Kikuno

• Website: https://www.masahirokikuno.jp/

• IG: https://www.instagram.com/masahiro_kikuno/?hl=en

• Annual production: 1 to 3

• How to buy: through the website (currently closed)

• References

  • A Portrait

  • The Wrist Art

  • The Joy of Making Time (video)

If Hajime Asaoka is the Philippe Dufour of Japan, then Masahiro Kikuno (born in 1983) is Japan’s Rexhep Rexhepi (born in 1987). Their work is virtually unobtainable, but we can still learn about it and appreciate it from afar.

Masahiro is a watchmaking genius who became the youngest member of AHCI at the age of 30. He produces just one to three watches a year, each made entirely by hand and crafted by him alone. The fortunate owner receives not only a timepiece, but also a thick book documenting the entire watchmaking process.

As recently as November 2025, Masahiro’s latest creation, Inherit, was still available to order through his website. It is a high-complication watch featuring a minute repeater, a monopusher chronograph, and a tourbillon in a single timepiece. The list price was $600,000, and only three examples will be made, with deliveries expected between 2028 and 2032.

Daizoh Makihara

• Website: https://www.daizohmakihara.jp/en/

• IG: https://www.instagram.com/daizohmakihara.88/

• Annual production: one

• How to buy: through the website

• References

  • An Interview

  • Horological Delicacies

Masa’s Pastime

• Website: https://antique-pastime.com/en

• IG: https://www.instagram.com/pastime_masa_/

• Annual production: less than 50

• How to buy: lottery

• References

  • MP Series: Kamon

  • 2025-26 Production

Masa’s Pastime is an atelier founded by Mr. Masa Nakajima in 1990. For many years, the company focused on restoring antique pocket watches and wristwatches, as well as creating wristwatches powered by antique pocket watch movements. In recent years, however, its focus has shifted to producing new artisanal watches with in-house movements.

Its first collection, the MP Series, consists of four models: Nagi, Sohkoku, Shike, and Kamon. All are powered by the in-house caliber MP1. Every movement component, except for the rubies, mainspring, and hairspring, is manufactured in-house. Sohkoku was also selected as a semi-finalist in the recent LV Watch Prize competition, making Masa’s Pastime one of four Japanese brands represented.

The second collection is the Nayuta Model, featuring watches created by 32-year-old watchmaker Nayuta Shinohara. His Model A combines a guilloché dial with a manually wound movement featuring a large balance wheel.

Jiro Katayama

• Website: https://otsuka-lotec.com/models/642/

• IG: https://www.instagram.com/jiro.katayama/

• Annual production: very small number

• How to buy: direct contact (no lottery)

• References

  • Introducing No 9

  • The New No 9

I have listed Jiro Katayama separately from Otsuka Lotec because his ultra high-end creations, represented by the No. 9, are in an entirely different league. Otsuka Lotec watches, such as the No. 6 and No. 8, are manufactured by Precision Watch Tokyo based on Jiro’s designs. The No. 9, however, bears the name Jiro Katayama rather than Otsuka Lotec and is crafted by Jiro himself in extremely limited numbers.

In terms of complications, the No. 9 features jumping hours, rewinding minutes, a tourbillon, an hour-striking mechanism, and a power reserve indicator. Its movement consists of 278 components, and it has a list price of around $100,000.

Norifumi Seki (Quiet Club)

• Website: https://www.quietclub.com/

• IG: https://www.instagram.com/quietclub_watches/?hl=en

• Annual production: 10

• How to buy: through the website

• References

  • One to Watch

  • A Conversation

  • Fading Hours

I first learned about the Quiet Club when its watch, Fading Hours, together with its watchmaker, Norifumi Seki, was selected as a semi-finalist in the recent LV Watch Prize competition. As I dug deeper, I came across several intriguing facts. First, Norifumi Seki was the winner of the 2020 F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition, becoming the first recipient from Asia. Second, two of his partners in the Quiet Club venture are from the US West Coast, one based in Seattle and the other in San Francisco.

The Fading Hours is an alarm watch designed to let the wearer devote uninterrupted time to a chosen task. It features a second pair of hour and minute hands for setting the alarm, which remain hidden beneath the main hands when not in use. Even more interesting, the alarm hands are adjusted by rotating the bezel. All other functions are operated through the crown, which incorporates a built-in pusher.

The alarm’s chiming mechanism was developed entirely from scratch by Norifumi Seki, who handcrafts most of the components himself in the workshop in Japan.

Shin Ohno

• Website: none

• IG: https://www.instagram.com/shinwatchmaking/

• Annual production: very low number

• How to buy: direct contact

• References

  • Award Coverage 1

  • Award Coverage 2

Shin Ohno was the winner of the 2026 Young Talent Competition organized by F.P. Journe. By pure luck, I was present at the award ceremony during the F.P.Journe Annual Salon on April 14, 2026. Mr. Journe, Mr. Michael Tay of The Hour Glass, and several jury members, including Elizabeth Doerr, were in attendance. Past winners were there as well, including Alex and Victor of Hazemann & Monnin. They won the competition three years earlier, and their phenomenal success demonstrates the positive impact of this award.

This year’s winner was Shin Ohno, a 27-year-old watchmaker from Japan. He graduated from the National Institute of Technology, Toyota College. His timepiece, named “Fuyu-Geshiki,” was built entirely from the ground up. It features a grande and petite sonnerie, a quarter repeater, and a tourbillon. It is a remarkable achievement in haute horology, especially from such a young watchmaker.

I found myself applauding throughout the ceremony and was genuinely happy for Shin. I have no doubt he will become one of the rising stars of Japanese independent watchmaking and help make the country’s indie scene even more exciting.

Kikuchi Nakagawa

• Website: https://kikuchi-nakagawa.com/en/

• IG: https://www.instagram.com/kikuchi_nakagawa/

• Annual production: 8

• How to buy: through the website (currently closed to new orders due to an estimated 10-year waiting list)

• References

  • Overview

  • First Model

  • Second Model

  • Third Model

Gaku Okada

• Website: https://www.youtube.com/@gaku-instruments

• IG: https://www.instagram.com/gaku_okada/?hl=en

• Annual production: unknown

• How to buy: through the IG account

• References

  • A Metronome

  • Tempo Rubato

Yosuke Sekiguchi

• Website: https://yosuke-sekiguchi.ch/

• IG: https://www.instagram.com/yosuke_sekiguchi_jp_official/

• Annual production: unknown

• How to buy: direct contact or through 2 ADs

• References

  • Primevère Prototype

  • One to Watch

Takahiko Aigaki

• Website: none

• IG: https://www.instagram.com/aigaki_timepieces/?hl=en

• Annual production: very few

• How to buy: direct contact

• References

  • Upclose

  • Direct Impulse Tourbillon

An avid Kari Voutilainen collector once told me that Takahiko Aigaki was Kari’s “top man.” He was not exaggerating. Takahiko was born in Japan and attended watchmaking school there. After graduation, he spent six years at Piaget Japan working in watch servicing and repairs. In 2013, he moved to Switzerland and joined Kari Voutilainen’s workshop, where he remained for the next 10 years.

In 2023, Takahiko was ready to become an independent watchmaker in his own right. He began work on a Direct Impulse Tourbillon, a handmade watch produced without the use of CNC machines. Most of the components, including the balance wheel, were made entirely by hand. Along the way, he documented the entire process on his Instagram account, with the first post appearing on September 19, 2023.

In April 2024, Takahiko unveiled the rotating tourbillon. Four months later, he revealed the dial of his first watch signed AIGAKI. It quickly became clear why he had been regarded as the top man in Kari Voutilainen’s workshop.

Fabien Pellet

• Website: https://www.fabianpellet.com/en

• IG: https://www.instagram.com/fabian_pellet/

• Annual production: very small

• How to buy: contact directly

• References

  • The Debut Piece

  • “Essential”

Fabien Pellet, who was born in Lausanne, spent more than 10 years at Breguet working on movement development and restoration, followed by five years teaching at a leading watchmaking school. He settled in Tokyo in 2022 and began his journey as an independent watchmaker.

His first creation, named Essential, is a timepiece built entirely from scratch and reflects the depth of his experience. The bridge design is simple yet refreshing, revealing the neatly arranged gear train and mainplate. It is undoubtedly the culmination of Fabien’s insights and vision, presenting traditional watchmaking in a distinctive way.

Alan Birchall

• Website: https://www.a-birchall.com/

• IG: https://www.instagram.com/a.birchall.watchmaker

• Annual production: one

• How to buy: contact directly

• References

  • The Journey

  • The First Watch

Alan Birchall was born into a watchmaking family, with both his father and grandfather working as watchmakers. After attending watchmaking school, he spent 10 years specializing in watch repair and restoration in the UK and Australia.

Alan visited Japan at the start of the Covid pandemic and ended up staying much longer than planned, eventually meeting his future wife. He decided to make a watch for himself, and because every component was handmade, he felt they deserved to be seen rather than hidden.

That project became the Pièce d’essai N.00, or Test Piece No. 00, which ultimately evolved into the watches he now creates for his clients.

Final Thoughts

My first impression after taking a deep dive into Japanese independent watchmaking is the incredible breadth of watches on offer. At one end are ultra-high-end timepieces, with some watchmakers producing only a single watch each year. At the other end are more affordable brands such as Kurono Tokyo and Otsuka Lotec. Some brands also use a lottery system to allocate watches, which seems like a fair approach.

Another observation is how close-knit the Japanese independent watchmaking community appears to be. The more established watchmakers are willing to support the next generation. For example, Hajime Asaoka collaborates with Jiro Katayama on the production of Otsuka Lotec watches. This allows Jiro to focus on what he does best, designing watches, rather than managing the supply chain and e-commerce. Hajime has also offered his support to Gaku Okada should the young watchmaker decide to put his watch into production.

Another example is Masa Nakajima taking Nayuta Shinohara under his wing and allowing him to launch a collection under his own name. It is wonderful to see this kind of mentorship.

One surprise to me is the influence of F.P. Journe on the Japanese independent watchmaking scene. His annual Young Talent Competition, which began in 2015, has already produced two winners from Japan: Norifumi Seki and Shin Ohno. Events like this not only discover talented young watchmakers, but also provide them with support and guidance. It speaks to F.P. Journe’s remarkable foresight and commitment to the future of independent watchmaking.

Furthermore, Naoya Hida, a true genius in marketing and branding, must have learned many valuable lessons during his time at F.P.Journe Japan.

Lastly, let me return to the question that started this article: which country outside Switzerland has contributed the most independent watchmakers? Have I made the case for Japan?

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My hope of getting a Pepsi at retail was dashed earlier this year when the Ref. 126710BLRO was discontinued. I visited Steve, my SA at Rolex Boutique J. Licht & Sons, to update my wish list. This time, I chose the Yacht-Master 42 in RLX titanium, Ref. 226627.

My luck changed, and I received a call from Steve not long afterward. When he helped me put on the watch, it was a stunning yet understated beauty. After wearing it for a week, I realized that between the flashy steel Pepsi and this handsome, lightweight Yacht-Master, I actually preferred the more understated and sophisticated piece. I have also received many compliments from fellow watch enthusiasts.

Could this be a sign of a larger trend? Recent titanium releases from top brands, combined with my experience owning the Rolex Ref. 226627, have convinced me that titanium will eventually overtake stainless steel as the preferred metal for sports watches.

You don’t agree? Then this is my hot take. My full argument is this: for luxury integrated-bracelet sports watches, the preferred metals going forward will be either precious metals for their status and heft, or titanium for its appearance and comfort.

That doesn’t mean stainless steel will disappear. It simply won’t be the most desirable metal anymore.

Now I’ll present my analysis and make my case, ending with some gorgeous titanium sports models. This may be my most controversial article so far, so please leave a comment to support or challenge my take.

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Titanium versus Stainless Steel

First, it is useful to understand the differences between Grade 2 and Grade 5 titanium, as both are used in watchmaking. Grade 2 titanium is about 99% pure and is softer than stainless steel, making it more prone to scratches. Its softness also means it cannot be mirror polished to the same high standard expected in luxury watchmaking.

Grade 5 titanium consists of approximately 90% titanium, 6% aluminum, and 4% vanadium. This alloy is significantly stronger than the stainless steels commonly used in watchmaking. It can also be polished, brushed, and sandblasted to a very high standard. In the remainder of the article, we will focus on Grade 5 titanium exclusively.

Let’s examine the key advantages and disadvantages of Grade 5 titanium as a material for high-end integrated-bracelet sports watches, compared directly with stainless steel.

Weight

Titanium is generally 42% to 45% lighter than steel, resulting in a noticeably more comfortable wearing experience, whether for daily use or sports activities. Imagine running long distances or hiking in the mountains. A titanium watch on a matching bracelet is far more comfortable than a heavy steel model.

Strength

Strength refers to the maximum stress a material can withstand before permanent deformation or failure. Grade 5 titanium is approximately 1.5 to 2 times stronger than the stainless steels. This allows manufacturers to produce thinner lugs, slimmer bracelet links, and greater structural rigidity while using less material.

Scratch Resistance

Both materials offer good scratch resistance, but stainless steel is generally believed to hold up slightly better over the long term. Minor scratches are also often less noticeable because of its brighter finish.

Corrosion Resistance

Both materials are highly resistant to corrosion. Titanium, however, is virtually immune to corrosion under normal wearing conditions. It withstands perspiration, seawater, humidity, acids, and salt exceptionally well. Its natural oxide layer is among the most stable of any engineering metal.

Thermal Conductivity

Titanium conducts heat much more slowly than stainless steel. As a result, it transfers far less heat away from your wrist when you first put it on. It quickly warms to body temperature, never feels uncomfortably cold, and remains noticeably more comfortable in cold weather. This is often one of the first differences collectors notice when switching from steel to titanium.

Polishing, Brushed Finishing, and Machining

Because of its strength, titanium is more difficult to machine than steel. It requires specialized tooling and longer processing times, which increase manufacturing costs. Ironically, this is often part of the appeal for collectors, much like the appreciation for watches made with tantalum cases and bracelets.

In terms of the final finish, titanium cannot quite match steel’s bright, jewelry-like appearance. However, the gap has narrowed thanks considerably to advances in machining and finishing techniques. At the same time, titanium offers its own distinctive aesthetic. Its darker tone and more understated appearance have become increasingly appreciated by collectors.

Summary

From a materials engineering perspective, Grade 5 titanium is arguably the more advanced material. It is lighter, significantly stronger, offers a superior strength-to-weight ratio, provides exceptional corrosion resistance, and is more comfortable to wear.

Stainless steel’s appeal lies not in superior engineering performance, but in its ease of finishing, resistance to visible wear, and bright, jewelry-like appearance. That distinction may be at the heart of the shift in collector preferences that is taking shape.

The Titanium Adoption Curve

Now let’s look at the brands’ offerings and examine their decisions regarding titanium as a material for sports watches. A total of 15 makers of luxury integrated-bracelet sports watches have been identified and grouped in the table below. We can clearly see which brands offer cases and bracelets in precious metals, titanium, and stainless steel.

The brands can be divided into three groups. The first group, consisting entirely of top independent brands, offers sports watches in titanium but not in stainless steel. Most also offer sports watches in precious metals.

F.P.Journe famously launched the LineSport Collection with an aluminum case and bracelet in 2011, aiming to create an ultra-lightweight sports watch. Three years later, the brand switched to titanium, where it remains today, as aluminum proved to be a bit too soft. For the independent brands in this group, including F.P.Journe, lightweight construction and wearing comfort appear to be the highest priorities.

The second group consists of eight leading brands that offer all three materials: stainless steel, titanium, and precious metals. With higher production volumes than the independents, these brands are well positioned to offer a broader range of choices. At the same time, they have clearly recognized the advantages of titanium and are giving customers the option to choose.

The final group of “holdouts” includes industry heavyweight Patek Philippe, which is celebrating the 50th anniversary of the steel Nautilus this year. These brands have been more cautious about adopting titanium for their sports watches.

Borrowing the terminology from the marketing classic Crossing the Chasm, the independent brands, led by F.P.Journe, can be viewed as the Innovators and Early Adopters in titanium sports watches.

Audemars Piguet, Chopard, Rolex, and several others represent the Early Majority. They have embraced titanium while continuing to invest in stainless steel, effectively letting the market determine titanium's long-term role in their collections.

Finally, Patek Philippe, H. Moser & Cie., and Parmigiani Fleurier remain cautious adopters. In Crossing the Chasm terms, they currently sit on the late side of the adoption curve, continuing to bet on the enduring appeal of stainless steel.

From this survey, we can conclude that titanium is clearly an emerging material for luxury sports watches, even if it is still far from overtaking stainless steel. At the same time, the direction of the industry is becoming increasingly clear. More and more brands are embracing titanium as a core material for their sports watch collections.

Titanium at Its Best

My hot take is not based primarily on an analysis of titanium's material properties or the product strategies of leading brands. Instead, it is driven by my own experience wearing titanium watches. Their lightweight, exceptional comfort, high-tech aesthetic, and warm, satisfying feel to the touch have won me over.

Now, let's enjoy some of the finest titanium integrated-bracelet sports watches available today. Some of the photographs were taken by me, while others are from Instagram and the brands' websites.

Rolex Yacht-Master 42 RLX Titanium Ref: 226627

RLX titanium is a Grade 5 titanium alloy specially selected by Rolex. Like all Grade 5 titanium alloys, it is exceptionally lightweight and is known for its mechanical strength and corrosion resistance. Another characteristic of RLX titanium is that it can be finished with either a polished or satin surface. However, its high mechanical strength also makes it difficult to machine, requiring Rolex to develop special production processes.

Currently, only two Rolex models are available in titanium: the Deepsea Challenge Ref. 126067 and the Yacht-Master 42 Ref. 226627. The Crown has apparently taken a measured approach to titanium, introducing it first on relatively niche models rather than its core sports watches. Collectors, however, have responded enthusiastically. Since its debut in 2023, the titanium Yacht-Master has become one of the most sought-after Rolex models.

For daily wear and outdoor activities, the titanium Yacht-Master is the Rolex to own. Another hot take. Let’s face it. Excluding the Daytona, Rolex’s Professional models all share a similar design language, from the hour markers and Mercedes hands to the bezel. To me, it makes perfect sense to own just one. If that is the case, the cutting-edge titanium Yacht-Master would be my top choice.

Of course, the Daytona has a distinctly different look. A two-watch collection consisting of the Daytona and the titanium Yacht-Master would perfectly represent Rolex’s sports watches.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Points

Czapek Antarctique Tourbillon - Cosmic Blue

Ressence Type 7

Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon Pursuit

Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto Blue

Romain Gauthier C Titanium Edition Bracelet Lumen Dial

Romain Gauthier has chosen to offer his C collection of sporty watches exclusively in platinum and titanium. The titanium model shown below showcases the highest level of engineering in both case and bracelet design.

Titanium has allowed Romain Gauthier to push both engineering and design further, from the sculpted bezel to the sophisticated bracelet construction, while delivering an exceptional wearing experience that is difficult to match with stainless steel. Feedback from owners has been overwhelmingly positive, with wearing comfort consistently cited as one of the watch’s greatest strengths.

F.P.Journe LineSport Automatique Reserve

Excluding the Chronomètre Furtif, which was unveiled last year, the LineSport collection by F.P. Journe consists of the Automatique Réserve, Centigraphe, and Chronographe Rattrapante. Each model is available in titanium, rose gold with a hammered finish, or platinum with a hammered finish.

For 2026, F.P. Journe introduced a limited nine-piece LineSport box set, including three titanium models with a new burgundy dial. True to Mr. Journe’s longstanding philosophy, the release has received very little media coverage, reflecting his preference not to fuel the hype surrounding his watches.

Below are a few photographs of the LineSport Automatique Réserve with its vivid yellow dial, which I reviewed previously.

A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus in Titanium 250 Limited Edition

The Future Is Light

While we have explored the properties of titanium, its adoption by watch brands, and some outstanding titanium timepieces currently available, we have not yet touched on the cost factor.

As discussed, titanium is a more challenging metal to machine, resulting in higher manufacturing costs. Let’s compare the titanium Rolex Yacht-Master with the Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 126610LN, which is powered by the same Caliber 3235. While the Submariner is priced at $11,350, the Yacht-Master costs $16,050, a difference of 41%. As of today, a titanium watch generally costs more than its stainless steel counterpart, and this price gap may remain for some time.

Nevertheless, the broader trend seems increasingly clear. In the niche of luxury integrated-bracelet sports watches, stainless steel has reigned for decades. From the perspectives of wearing comfort, aesthetics, and engineering performance, titanium is poised to take over. Many brands are already positioning themselves to ride this wave. Ultimately, the biggest beneficiaries will be us watch enthusiasts.

I do not doubt that we will continue to enjoy our steel watches, but it is wonderful to have new choices. From that perspective, I’m perfectly happy whether my hot take turns out to be right or wrong.

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Among the many strong auction results, one brand stood out. Four lots appeared in the Phillips New York auction, and all four sold for more than $1 million all-in. The Masterpiece Chronograph II “Number 1 of 10” achieved $1.84 million, setting a new record for the brand.

That record, however, lasted only three days. On June 17, 2026, a Regulator Decimal Repeater sold for $1.94 million at the Marteau & Co “The Heat Wave” Auction. The maker behind these extraordinary timepieces is, of course, Kari Voutilainen.

These stunning results of Kari’s watches seem to have created two camps. Some collectors wonder whether such strong prices can continue. Others believe Voutilainen watches should have reached this level of recognition long ago, perhaps even a year earlier.

Is the market momentum behind Kari watches sustainable? Do the auction results of one of today’s most respected independent watchmakers support the NYC Watch Guy’s argument that watches can be art? Or is a red-hot market inevitably followed by a cooling-off period? No one knows for sure.

I do not currently own a Kari watch. My closest connection to the master is the Sartory Billard SB06-12, powered by a movement made by Comblémine, a Kari company. Still, I thought it would be fun to take a deeper look at Kari’s creations over the years and their recent auction performance. Along the way, we may uncover some interesting insights.

In any case, I am genuinely happy for Kari, his team, and the collectors who own his timepieces.

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Notable Timepieces by Kari Voutilainen

To prepare for this write-up, I watched Kari’s recent lecture at the Horological Society of New York one more time. If you have 90 minutes to spare, it is a fascinating presentation that I would highly recommend (link to video).

Here are some notable models created by Kari, as described by the master himself. I have also taken the liberty of using a few screenshots from the lecture.

The first watch Kari made, aside from his school watch, was this one-minute tourbillon pocket watch more than 30 years ago. While working full-time at Parmigiani, he spent four years of evenings and weekends completing it.

When Kari became fully independent in 2002, he initially supported himself through restoration work. He later transitioned to producing small-series wristwatches based on rare chronometer movements originally used in observatory competitions. Slightly more than 50 watches were made using the Peseux 260 ébauche.

Named Observatoire, this series established many of the design elements now associated with Kari, including engine-turned dials and teardrop lugs.